Re: 1937 115-c pistions
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Ok the distributor bushing are tight new points and condenser and new inner hot wire. New coil and wires also. Plugs are all burning clean, Reconditioned gas tank, new sending unit, new fuel lines with glass bowl filter, fuel pump and clean rebuilt carberator. No vacuum leaks and vacuum advance is good. Has plenty of power and runs and starts good ! I also wanted to replace the head gasket to make sure all was well. Putting in new studs to make sure all is good thair, I know I don't have to but that's me. Nice guality studs fram kanter. I will get there. Thanks guys, Dave
Posted on: 2016/2/16 16:58
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Learnig
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Re: 1937 115-c pistions
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Owen, thank you for the reply, this was puzzling me. I have a friend that works and owners old cars , dodge brothers and Nash. He said also that if the rist pins were bad it would be rapping. I have a rough running engine at off idle speeds, my next check will be the hominic balancer. New motor mounts, clutch Assembly, went through distribator twice, adjusted valves, oil pressure 35, compression all good, timing good, I don't know what ealse it could be. Thank you Dave
Posted on: 2016/2/15 20:03
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Learnig
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1937 115-c pistions
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four of my pistons on my six are slightly facing slightly to between 11:00 o clock and 12:00has anybody here ever seen anything like this before. this engine was rebuilt before I purchased last year and was sitting for quite some time. the pistons are all marked std and no ridge in the walls. Dave
Posted on: 2016/2/15 16:46
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Learnig
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Re: Carter aw-1 1937
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I have found out that the rebuild on my carberator is fine, the metering rod is held up by a spring and when the motor is running it is held down with vacuum on the power valve , when the excelerator is pushed the linkage lifts the metering rod. A good article on this is on you tube for the carter aw1 carberator on mikes parts.
Posted on: 2016/1/24 19:31
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Learnig
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Carter aw-1 1937
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While taking a close look at my carberator on my 37 I see my metering rod is on the top side of the power valve lever ! .if I set it up under to lift the rod , as under power on the close side the metering rod bottoms out. It acts as though the metering rod is 1/8" to long. The metering rod no. Is. 75-450 and the main jet is a. 120- 185. Does anybody know what should be in here. This carberator was rebuilt by someone and is clean as new. I have rebuilt gm quadrajet carberators but this has me stumped Thanks. Dave
Posted on: 2016/1/23 15:50
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Learnig
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Rough running 1937 115-c
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My 37 seems to be rough running or has a viberation at medium rpm . The distributor rebuilt, compression is 115 + - 3 lbs, valves adjusted were ok, vacuum 18" and steady, oil pressure 32-35 psi. Timing at 4 btdc . No knocks in motor ? . Would a harmonic balancer do this ? . Another thing the clutch was replaced by a previous owner of this car and I discovered that a spring was missing in the clutch disc. It was a rebuilt disc with little ware on the lining but the spring holder had broken out and the spring was gone, removed by previous owner and cover replaced. 😟 . So my disc core is no good , but my throw out bearing and holder are real good as the pressure plate also is good. New or rebuilt ? I now have installed a new disc hoping this was my shake , but it was not ! . More surching I think that my bearing holder and bearing fit a 1939 120 the reasion I think this is 1938 120 owners manual pg 18 tells that the clutch shifter bearing holder has a oil hole in the top of it. That is what I have . Now could my flywheel and assembly from a 120 ? ,.throwing it out of balance ? Are thay interchangeable or what part years fit. I have also installed new motor mounts , Any ideas and help thanks Dave
Posted on: 2016/1/18 11:52
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Learnig
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Re: Front wheel bearing lock nuts 37- 115 c
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I can not enter a photo, I can't reduce my pixel on my apple product. Dave
Posted on: 2016/1/4 10:01
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Learnig
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Re: Front wheel bearing lock nuts 37- 115 c
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Good morning, Yes you can damage the tab, so this is what I did, I used 1/8" x 1 1:2" flat steel stock and cut pieces to the shape of a wrench using the 1 5/8" nut as a guide I clamped the pieces to my welding table. After fabricating it was still to wide to fit I back of the lock washer so I tapered the wrenches outside edges to fit behind the locking washer because the space was less than 1/8". Also every time I locked the nuts together using the wrench the bearings were to tight so I had to back it off another hole in the locking ring. Dave
Posted on: 2016/1/4 9:18
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Learnig
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Re: Front wheel bearing lock nuts 37- 115 c
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Made up a wrench to hold the inside lock nut it worked real good. 3/32" thick . Dave
Posted on: 2016/1/3 16:43
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Learnig
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