That would work better the HEI has an integrated coil and came on later engines late 70s into the 90s its the big rather ugly (in my opinion) one you see in the parts stores and speed parts catalogs but it works well and is very dependable. I didn't know about the 6V Pertronix kit thanks for the tip, does it eliminate the points?

I've heard rumors of one in mexico it was a 200 sedan cut down looks very similar to a euro sports car with a roof i posted a link to it on the modification board look for the La Carrera post.

An aluminum head is the way to go if you can find one they cool better and can be welded if needed. The repro Edmunds piece is a great part but the manufacturer deals in low volume and you have to remember how many people are asking for Packard heads the log delivery date probably has to do with waiting to have enough orders to make a run practical and they use a Packard combustion chamber design with 8.5 compression instead of the Edmunds that has 11.1 or so and is known to ping bad no matter how good your gas is. The problem with the early aluminum factory head is the quality of aluminum at the time, it was very poor if you have ever had a vintage Ford V8 aluminum head side by side its modern equivalent you can tell that the modern piece is stronger and thicker.

Bending new line is east you can get the stuff you need to bend and flare the new line at your local auto parts store or big chain hardware store.
I'm not sure about Packatds 100% but a lot of cars had a second vent line that would follow the fill neck up or vent to somewhere else under the chassis it might be worth taking a look under the car just to make sure before you spend the money on new lines and tools.

I had a fairly similar problem on an old Ford truck and it turned out the fuel tank was not venting properly (mud dobbers in the vent line) replaces the vent and it worked great.

He did but he traded them off.

Unless I'm mistaken a GM style electronic distributor and the Pertronix set up will not be compatible with your 6V battery and your lights and electric accessories will likely blow if you put a 12V battery in it. If you want to keep things 6V but have a hotter ignition call Joe Hunt magnetos they can custom build one to fit the L8 block for around $800 and it will be completely independent of your battery/ charging system as it generates its own spark.

Thanks for the tip

I'm getting the sources worked out now to have quite a few custom parts built for my 327 L8 as well as a decent amount that I will be fabricating myself. As I'm sure most of you are aware there is next to nothing available off the shelf to increase performance and what is available is quite pricey through necessity. But if you guys are interested I'm considering selling kits for multi carb intakes and split exhaust systems as well as later on cam, lifter, spring kits, and billet main caps and the related hardware. If I get enough people interested I'll make some up.

Not really sure on the number of carbs quite yet. I have 4 singles that came off of Chev 6's that I was thinking of using for no other reason than having them. I do have several 2G style carbs of various condition and there easy enough to find to where I could easily put together 3 without destroying the bank. I like the concept of the 4 singles the best but how would the performance be? What does your guy charge for a reground cam and the flanges for the intake and exhaust?