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Board index » All Posts (JoeSantana)




Re: Brake drums wont come off suggestions?
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Joe Santana
OK, everyone stay calm. Just sharing my experience. The rim doesn't bend back like the rubber cover on the overdrive solenoid.

When you're pulling a drum on a big car that hasn't had it done for a very long time, its hard to believe the drum can handle the amount of force the wheel puller puts on it and still not come off. And it does seem like it will break before it will come off, but it will come off , and with such a very loud bang, like a 30.06, that neighbors may come over to investigate. Not Everyone's neighbors may come over, but that was my experience.

A little hyperbole is good for the soul. Follow the instructions of the more knowledgeable guides on this forum, but keep my experience in the back of your mind. Your drums may slide right off, but you may reach the point where you feel the rims of the drum are bent back like a mule laughing. Stay with it because they will pop off.

Joe

Posted on: 2011/6/14 9:05
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Re: Brake drums wont come off suggestions?
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Joe Santana
The studs pull back the rim of the brake drum until it pops off the center.

Posted on: 2011/6/13 19:39
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
WINDOWS: Joes method of riveting the weatherstrip lining of the front window channel.

UPHOLSTERY SHOP: Just photos. Most beautiful work.

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Posted on: 2011/6/13 16:11
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Re: Brake drums wont come off suggestions?
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Joe Santana
After you start turning the wheel puller, it pulls back the rim. How far do you go? Just imagine the lips of a horse laughing before it actually pops. The loudest bang I ever heard in my life. After, when you realize that you and the hub are not severely injured, it makes you laugh that it actually came off without damage. That how it was with my 40 160.

Joe

Posted on: 2011/6/13 16:07
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
These guys. Backwards Unlimited.

Be sure to give them a sample of the color you want.

http://site.backwardsunlimited.com/About.html

Joe

Posted on: 2011/6/13 15:02
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
Right, West. But I do have 1 I could turn in as a core.

A 1377 needs 4 strikers for front and rear doors, all the same, Parts section 30.466 #353195 (or 377621). I was trying to find usable cores because I'll be charged $120 for 4 new cores (on top of the $260 for new rubber). Almost $100 each for striker plates. Yikes. But I must have, so ordered from Max Merritt on Friday. Asked in a voice mail if they would give me some time to find used but usable cores. I'll prob hear from them today.

Posted on: 2011/6/13 10:20
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Re: Looking for shims in all the wrong places...
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Joe Santana
You must have that shim but now, but I was at the Ace Hardware store I go every weekend and I remembered the shim you were looking for, Tom. They do indeed have a mylar (very tough to tear) washer that is 15/32 ID and 59/64 OD and .015 thick. 21 cents. Item # MRW-716. My motto is "dumb but lucky." Maybe someone knows the reason this would be dumb, but to me it seems to have the properties you needed.
Joe

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Posted on: 2011/6/11 21:39
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
Thanks, OD, lots happening now.

CARPET: Wilton wool cut pile, dark taupe or dark gray, is what I'm after. Beaverton Auto can make them, but it seems Kanter or Hirsch has ready-made sets, maybe there's an alternative recommendation. I couldn't determine from their websites, or cost. I think they were pretty reasonable.

Of course, Quiet Ride has taken 2 weeks to ship a generic, off the shelf, floor kit. That has to go in first.

RUNNINGBOARD: One runningboard has been stripped of rubber but needs to sit in the rust tank over the weekend at American Metal Cleaning.

DOOR STRIKERS: I haven't given up on SOMEONE finding striker plate cores for me, but ordered new ones to get the ball rolling.

Posted on: 2011/6/10 17:33
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
There aren't words to express the anticipation, now that the Duchess has arrived at Beaverton Auto Upholstery. Theron has started on the rear door panels. The installation of the top starts Monday.

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Posted on: 2011/6/10 14:50
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
The Duchess has paint and it's an astounding job, esp considering the condition her lead she was in.

Yesterday I remounted the items pulled off the firewall before painting.

This morning I'm going to get some help adjusting the timing, etc. Then it's off to the upholstery shop.

In another thread "Trunk interior Finish for 1940" it shaping up that there's a rubber matting like the bumpy or beaded material on the firewall on the floor of the trunk under a fabric/carpet material of hogs hair that's a scratchy, mottled brown, covering the mat and the sides of the trunk. It would be nice if there were some standards for trunks.

DOORS: In a thread on the front windows, 1940 Front Door Window Mechanism, what specifically connects the primary arm and the secondary arm to create a scissors action is still a question.
The pins for the rear windows to replace the window gears are done. This is the second set since I mistakenly sent the pin from the wrong mechanism to the first machinist.The purpose was to replace the gear with the worn down teeth (that let the window crank handle turn freely without raising the rear window. Both sides were shot. I found replacements from a donor of unknown make and vintage with good teeth all around.

CHROME: It may not be the final piece, but I also picked up the horn ring yesterday.

HEADLIGHTS: Replaced the broken headlight adjusting screw. Knocked out the remaining pieces of old rivet in the one sent from David Moe and in the headlight itself, then using Q-bond super glue, two small rivets into the holes, and Q-bond filler powder, secured it to the top position and reassembled the headlight. I also replaced the adjusting screws in the other positions with a Ford kit from CWMoss restoration parts.

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Posted on: 2011/6/10 8:30
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