Just noticed the car appears to have the accessory front bumper guards. Don't know how common those were but at quick glance, there are not too many in the photo archives.

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Looks promising. Is the missing piece of grill in back seat as well? Numbers would be nice if you can get them.

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For others interested, sect 10-sheet metal of service manual details this. There are a few extra items they have you remove that is not absolutely necessary.

While the entire clip can be removed as a unit, I personally would not attempt it. Weight with all still attached would probably be in the range of 5-600 lbs, bulky, hard to maneuver & store. If memory serves each fender has to lift about 12-18 or so inches & at a slight angle to clear the suspension. Trying to do a clip with all the weight and not stress anything would be a chore. Probably take 4 well co-ordinated people.

No way to remove just a fender without unbolting the grill from that side so don't think it could be left in at all without risking damage--never tried.

Believe you'll find several more bolts than that on those series Packards--like a few behind the tire into frame for starters. If you do lift it off in one piece, it's VERY heavy. Lift it evenly up and over any obstructions keeping both sides level, no twisting-no spreading apart at rear. Avoid any stress on the pot metal at all--it does break. Keep careful track of any spacers & rubber under the radiator cradle bolts. There may be different number & thickness spacers side to side. Rubber will probably disintegrate or be smashed & dry. Those spacers affect the hood & fender alignment considerably.

That's a neat idea.

An extra set of hands is a a help. Of course the bumper and splash panels first. Some of the bolts will be rusted so be prepared for broken and use some good penetrating oil--particularly the ones at the bottom of fender under door jamb. Remove the kickpanels and look carefully for a bolt going from inside the car in the middle of the fender next to door jamb. Some have, some apparently didn't so check. Don't recall anything too complicated on yours that's as bad as other years but look carefully at the chrome pieces where they come together around corners and over sheetmetal. Make sure any that overlap are removed first. Look carefully for screws to grill that may be hidden under the fenders covered with mud or undercoat or somesuch. One screw holding things up & potmetal may crack if angled.

Some have found it useful to drill a small 1/8 hole discreetly at a couple of the fender mounting bolt locations. A suggestion is at the top corner near hood hinge at the fender to firewall bolt and another at the front corner at frame to fender location. When reassembling, a piece of rod through the holes allow alignment to go back much easier. If you'd rather not drill, then remove a bolt and make some kind of good alignment marks inside the slotted openings that will be covered by the washer. Do that at 2-3 locations before completely loosening.

For comparison. Currently available reproduction pieces. Looks like they admired everything down to the last detail

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As I recall, it's about the same size as bolt holes. Has your car had undercoating that might have been applied a bit too generously or maybe just 50 years of road mud and caked grease. Guess it's also possible the gasket or a part might have been installed incorrectly in the past--although with the shape would doubt it.

Mechanical parts should not be too hard to come by for most things. You didn't say which engine but the senior 356 engine parts and senior trim might be the hardest and most expensive to acquire. If you can provide a vehicle number off the Left cowl and motor number off the block above & to rear of distributor, will help narrow down what you have and any problems. Should be one of the more plentiful Packards in various parts yards though.

Other than the Electromatic clutch option being a bit of a PIA to set up & keep adjusted properly, nothing comes to mind as to issues. If you have the option, most just turn it off and admire how it looks.

There are some real experts on the 48-50's here so help will be readily available.

I seem to remember these as just a slide fit--no special tool needed. Probably some varnish or the like causing it to stick. Is the key still in the slot & if so, can it be removed?

The heat might work or possibly a small thin nail puller type bar on each side of gear so as to equalize pressure--as long as there is cast iron or something solid to push or pry against.