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A friend mechanic made something similar. A couple of spark plugs, top broken off and base drilled thru. Brazed or welded a hardware store eye bolt to the plug base. It worked but always wondered about the stress on plug hole threads if were pulled at an angle or with aluminum heads. I think your idea of adding a fixed strap as a handle would be a help but wonder about the off center pickup toward one edge. I actually like the C clamps if there were non slip padding or something to protect some of the big $ paint jobs--although I think undoing the head bolts would be enough to ruin that.

Check out Hanks 55 project for a soda blasted frame.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=15170#forumpost15170

Isn't the ribbed "reynolds wrap" folded over on top and bottom edge. Wonder if the notches are to clear the extra thickness. Haven't looked but believe the same pieces are used on all the 56's & would explain the Caribbean having notches--even though it didn't have the ribbed panels. Maybe the fellow got them in a deal he couldn't refuse.

Looks like BdeB may be correct. Here is a pict of 400 out of photo archive. Not sure why the notch on one but not other. The same piece on Caribbean is sort of curved like the bottom one to continue the trim back..

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Just noticed the car appears to have the accessory front bumper guards. Don't know how common those were but at quick glance, there are not too many in the photo archives.

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Looks promising. Is the missing piece of grill in back seat as well? Numbers would be nice if you can get them.

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For others interested, sect 10-sheet metal of service manual details this. There are a few extra items they have you remove that is not absolutely necessary.

While the entire clip can be removed as a unit, I personally would not attempt it. Weight with all still attached would probably be in the range of 5-600 lbs, bulky, hard to maneuver & store. If memory serves each fender has to lift about 12-18 or so inches & at a slight angle to clear the suspension. Trying to do a clip with all the weight and not stress anything would be a chore. Probably take 4 well co-ordinated people.

No way to remove just a fender without unbolting the grill from that side so don't think it could be left in at all without risking damage--never tried.

Believe you'll find several more bolts than that on those series Packards--like a few behind the tire into frame for starters. If you do lift it off in one piece, it's VERY heavy. Lift it evenly up and over any obstructions keeping both sides level, no twisting-no spreading apart at rear. Avoid any stress on the pot metal at all--it does break. Keep careful track of any spacers & rubber under the radiator cradle bolts. There may be different number & thickness spacers side to side. Rubber will probably disintegrate or be smashed & dry. Those spacers affect the hood & fender alignment considerably.

That's a neat idea.

An extra set of hands is a a help. Of course the bumper and splash panels first. Some of the bolts will be rusted so be prepared for broken and use some good penetrating oil--particularly the ones at the bottom of fender under door jamb. Remove the kickpanels and look carefully for a bolt going from inside the car in the middle of the fender next to door jamb. Some have, some apparently didn't so check. Don't recall anything too complicated on yours that's as bad as other years but look carefully at the chrome pieces where they come together around corners and over sheetmetal. Make sure any that overlap are removed first. Look carefully for screws to grill that may be hidden under the fenders covered with mud or undercoat or somesuch. One screw holding things up & potmetal may crack if angled.

Some have found it useful to drill a small 1/8 hole discreetly at a couple of the fender mounting bolt locations. A suggestion is at the top corner near hood hinge at the fender to firewall bolt and another at the front corner at frame to fender location. When reassembling, a piece of rod through the holes allow alignment to go back much easier. If you'd rather not drill, then remove a bolt and make some kind of good alignment marks inside the slotted openings that will be covered by the washer. Do that at 2-3 locations before completely loosening.