I would take a good look at the battery,battery cables and grounds.If the battery checks out,try a voltage drop test at ground connections.Also six volt battery cables are larger,so make sure they are the proper gauge.Your car should be positive ground.Also-oil and grease can work its way between the starter and bellhousing resulting in slow cranking speed.
If your wanting to add a 12 volt accesorie,get a convertor.
I bought 5amp one on ebay for $70.00.t handles the radio and lighter for cell phone charging.(5 amps is not enough for a cig lighter)

Check Hemmings for the sealed beam kit,you may not need it when you find your trouble....
RT

P.S
6 volt positive ground alternators are available,I installed one on my 38.Much faster charging at idle.

It will be interesting to see if the low beam will be visable while the hi beam is on...
Maybe bench test a bulb ?

I would order a new head gasket and manifold gaskets.
The head is a little heavy , around 50 lbs or so.

I wouldn't run it any longer than I had to, if it fails it's possible to damage ring lands.

I found that wood shims work well getting the head past the studs, work your way around the head /block with several.
I broke out the centers of a couple of spark plugs and welded eye bolts in them .I use my engine hoist to help with the weight of the head.

RT

T/O bearing-BCA pn#1625 note- slightly smaller I.D on this bearing , reqires small amount of T/O collar machining.

Pilot bearing -BCA pn# 7109 . I don't recall any mods for this bearing.

Both these Pn#'s are very common bearing's . They fit several applications -from an AMC Eagle to a Sunbeam Tiger !

I look for pics of the collar mod,don't remember if I took any.

Had my local clutch shop call there supplier and was told that bearing is proprietary .I also wouln't pay the price.
I had the machine shop cut the collar down($35.00) by 30 thou and use a late model bearing.

What a beauty !

I sure you will enjoy it for years to come !

Here are a few pics of the rear stabilizer bar.
Let me know if you need more info,don't think it would be hard to fabricate.

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These are all I have of my 38. I didn't take any pics when it was on the work bench.
I think there are at least 2 models that could be installed in the 38/39 Junior cars. I'm not sure ,but think the only difference on the tuning head( control head) was the dial ( check with yesterdays radio) and control features. The custom had local/distance and tone control along with a remote speaker option.
These radios do come up for sale, be prepared to pay.

This radio has been converted to 12 volt neg ground .am/fm mp3. With a powered arial under the running board. (The car is 6 volt positive)

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As stated above -the 6 ia basicaly the I 8 less 2 cylinders.
Rated at 100 hp. There was a option for an aluminium cyl.head.

I'm very happy with my six ! Smooth, quite, very powerful(loads of torque) and very dependable !

As for maintenance- basic service -oil changes, valve adjustments and tune ups. All parts are available .

Had mine rebuilt 2 years ago for $4300.00 including all machine work and parts. It has always had 45 psi oil pressure,cold or hot.(broken ring land was the reason for the rebuild)

I also have Studebaker Champ 6's .You can sure tell the difference when drive one then the other !

RT

Usally not a disconnected ground (+). (Although there is a ground wire that connects directly to the frame of the voltage reg.)
I have only seen this happen when a regulators points stick closed on the field side of the regulator. This energizes the generator when the key is switched on ,turning the generator into a motor.In theory it might be possible for the armeture side to stick also,I haven't seen that.
Disconnect the regulator and see if you still get a large draw. I think you can find the diagnostic manual on this site for charging systems.

If my poor memory is correct,all the accessorie circuts run through the headlamp switch - if you don't find the charging system at fault this might be the next place to look. Use the search feature to locate a wiring diagram on this site.

To get the amp meter to full negative without seeing smoke from an accessorie circut ? Maybe a shorted voltage regulator or generator, those are the only 2 circuts I can think of that can handle that amp draw.(with key on)