Wow!

Thanks to all for the fantastic response. I had a hunch this pump was rare based on the difficulty I had finding it anywhere.

If anyone needs a source to replace the top half casting of the Stewart Warner 407 pump I've found a source that manufactures the casting out of bronze, and then cadmium plates it. A few years ago I re-built a pump for a friend and used the casting to replace the top half that was cracked. The replacement fit and has worked fine. I've attached a file that shows the current source.

Since I can get the internal re-build parts all I have to do is find a sample of the three main castings, upper, lower, and pump arm to use as patterns for new castings.

I'll see it I can dig up some pictures of the SW 407 pump to send to Taxman.

I have an original Owen-Dyneto regulator that I can take some pictures of for tbirdman.

I also have a roster of all model 901's I've run across over the last 10 years. May be an interesting post for later.

I've taken some pictures of the Packard section from a 1931 MOTORS manual I have. They are about 1.8M in size each, and about 10 photos. Also have info from a 1930 MOTORS brake manual with detailed info on adjusting the Packard Bendix three shoe system.

Should I send these to bigkev@packardinfo.com for possible WEB site data?

Thanks again,

Dave

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O_D, It may have been the age/quality of the bias ply tires, I can't say for certain. But it definitely handles well now!

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I'm taking the old girl to a transmission shop in about 20 minutes to see if they can handle the (front seal?) leak from the Ultramatic. If not, I don't see me driving to Branson with a case of type F in the front seat, adding fluid via a funnel and plastic tube while en route (although I can now steer easily with one hand). Most likely I will not be ready for an extended road trip by the end of the month. As my father used to say, "We'll see".

Different folks and cars/tires with different histories and care have different experiences. Certainly OLD bias ply tires will handle very poorly and can be dangerous. Though it's generally recommended that radials should not be in service after 10 years, bias ply are sometimes stated to have longer life - can't say if that's true or just conjecture. The Dunlops on my 48 Custom were in service for more than 25 years, never needed air, never showed any age cracking, but when they were replaced with new bias ply the difference in handling was astounding.

I had new bias ply on my 56 Caribbean, switched to GoodYear radials because of short tread life on the bias; the front was always aligned "loaded" to specs, and I must say the handling has always been excellent, no big difference between the two types of tires.

I've donated regularly and been receiving the report for several years now. I suspect that in addition to "interested parties" and major forces in the hobby, those who have made contributions are placed on the mailing list, and I'm really glad to hear you're among them. I hope to make one of the open houses this year or next, though I'd probably fly out rather than drive a Packard that far.

JD,
Thanks for the unsolicited "testimonial" on radial vs. bias-ply tires.

I often 'lurch left' and 'lurch right' on the 25 yr old bias tires that are on my clipper. It is uncomfortable as I navigate 'seams' in city streets, and worse yet on 2 lane hiways. I have forgotten how scary a 2 lane state highway is at 60mph with oncoming traffic in the next lane.

Anyway, radials are on my 'add for safety list.' I have added seat belts and the turn signals. Can't imagine driving w/o them. Your comments remind me that radials need to be on my list for next year.

DanL
PS: Will these radials be taking you to Brandon?

WRT restoring the T-L suspension automatic levelling fuction, there's a reasonably good diagnostic procedure in the shop manual, but you'll find them under the "Electrical" section - not "Suspension". A few relevant articles and bulletins were also published, and can be found here, through the site's Service Index.

Start with a visual inspection of the wiring to make sure it's all in place - not ripped up, chewed, corroded, or suffering from previous incompetent repairs. Then, get a 12V test light and a jumper wire and start checking, as directed by the shop manual and any applicable bulletins.

If you need further help with the T-L problem and to avoid confusion with your Ultramtic issues, I recommend you start separate thread, with an appropriate subject title, and report back with your findings.

Good luck!

I was surprised and pleased to receive a copy of the Spring 2009 The "Packard Proving Grounds News Report". I think it is especially well done. I sure enjoyed reading about the activities at the proving grounds. I don't know how long this report has been published, but would like to continue receiving it. My brothers and I "bought" an Elm tree in memory of our father, and I have made donations to the foundation. Unlike the factory site, the proving grounds acquisition and improvements are moving along quite nicely. It is a great monument to the company. Anyone else get their first copy of the report? Please donate to the foundation. Bud Juneau, I don't know if you are responsible for this mailing, but thanks if you are.

Someone within the last month or so asked about the status of the ownership of the Packard Proving Grounds, and the acquisition of the remaining 6.88 acres. The attached excerpt from the current report answers that question.

Again, preservation and restoration of this site should be extremely important to Packard fans and should merit our contributions, large and small.

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To me, when the converter locks up it just feels like it shifted into high gear. I've never felt it unlock though. I like it, because when you take people for a ride, you say "watch this, I have a two speed transmission that shifts twice, now figure it out before I tell you the answer!" LOL, get's 'em confused every time!

As for the suspension, it all depends on what was wrong with it to make someone make it manual. Limit switches defective? Control box defective? You'll have to track down what the problem is first, then fix.

OK,I have ordered a case of type F and after I flush it, it will get driven!

When you drive do you actually feel the torue converter lock up? I am sure I hear an exhaust note change and the car is cruising nice at 60mph, and for a two speed it does not seem to be working that hard....

Also the automatic suspension - right now it is operated manually - what kind of process is it to put it back to automatic?

The people on here have been very helpful with my questions, thanks to all.

CHeers!