Wade is a snappy dresser. I particularly like the watch chain. Mal is like me - too casual to give a damn.

I was at the meet and had a good time. The 1951 belongs to Bill O'Grady. He brought back a car that most of us would have deemed a parts car. He drives it everywhere and I am glad he saved it. With that said, there is only so much money you can throw at a 1951 200 and he decided to paint the grille gold when he got the estimate for rechroming.

Good job on the video and thanks for embedding it!

I saw a 51 in the video with a gold grill. Never seen that before, that's a custom job right?

chuckltd: Quote:
<p>
Although I do not agree with this "bottom line" to his somewhat lengthy post, I think Chuck has some good points that <b>NO</b> braking system is fool proof, particularly if it is not maintained. This goes along with I am sensing may be the final consensus on the BTV issues that started this thread.
</p>
<p>
To add two examples to what Chuck cited that are not BTV or Packard related, but are in the category of semi-modern collector cars: Gen-2 Pontiac Firebirds (disc/drum or disc/disc) have been known to have cracked proportioning valves (because they are cast iron, I presume). This causes (usually) the rear of the dual master cylinder to leak out the crack and eliminate (usually) the rear drum brake function. One another example of a 1971 Firebird that I know of, the MC had to be replaced because the internal seals were leaking.
</p><p>However, in neither case was there a catastrophic failure. In the first case, the BRAKE light came on being detected by low pressure signal in the Pro-valve and in the second case, the pedal started to bleed down when constantly applied at a dead stop. IMO, one would have to be stupid to not pay attention to either one of these direct indicators</p>
<p>One big positive to an entirely new brake system, like I installed on my 1963 Tempest (new lines, new rear overhaul, converted to disc brakes & dual master and since sold to a happy new owner) is that one could probably expect to wait 50 some-odd years before encounting a systemic brake failure (installer errors ignored).
</p>
<p>
I agree with Eric and others that at the <b>VERY LEAST</b>, install a dual master system. Also, install front disc brakes because <b>NOBODY</b> seems to argue with that upgrade.
</P>
<p>
Craig
</p>
<p>P.S. I am, as Keith pointed out, "moving on" WRT to the BTV, but brakes are <b>SO</b> important that I felt compelled to post again on the general topic. -- just like Keith did.

for including your '53 in the Owner Registry. Looking forward to seeing your re-build, plenty of pic's as you go would be great.

That's typical wear and old rubber. The rubber deteriorates and what you have is the result. The "pins" or support arm bracket are reused. There's a little pimple on the top closer to one edge or on the side. Take note where -- toward engine or toward tire. The bracket can be installed either way depending on needs for wheel alignment. The mounting holes are offset slightly so additional range can be had and the pimple just makes it simple to keep track. Unless the bracket is bent or broken, not much to go wrong with it.

I would post a poc but I have no camera at the moment.

So I guess my best description of it would be that the bushing (closest to firewall) on the drivers side upper support arm looks as though it has "exploded" from pressure.

The opposite side is cracked but intact. So what it's doing is putting the pin at a slight angle throught the arm. And when any movent happens in the car you get a metal to metal grinding noise.

I haven't moved the car since this happened so there shouldn't be any extra wear int the arm or pin yet.

So I went to the parts store and ordered the bushings as a kit, but haven't seen them yet so I don't know if they are correct.

So my next question was/ should be is do "kits" generally come with the pin too? Or do I re use the one on my car?

As for mentioning them being backwards i meant "reversed". I haven't checked yet so I don't know if they are or not.

I can't see the post from here but someone mentioned I need to check how they were installed to put them back in correctly. So I wasn't sure if they were "reversed" if it was a mistake at manufacturing or I that's just how they should be.
Oh and how do I tell if the pin is past it's service life?

The BTV is worse apparently because something fails causing the fluid to be sucked up into the reservoir, and causing total brake failure. It wouldn't matter if it had a dual reservoir master cylinder on it, (which wouldn't fit because it's too long) this would still happen. The whole unit is unsafe because of this fact. Find out what causes the sudden part failure and fluid loss, find a permanent fix, and you will probably have a "decent" brake setup, not the best, but "decent". It won't ever be good because it's still a single line master cylinder, and hence unsafe from the start.

Dave, Thanks, I will give them a call.I bought this one off Ebay and it was supposed to be correct. I have had two sources tell me that CF441-IW, not CF444-IW, fits my Super Clipper but to date I can't find out which application this clutch fits even using a Precision Gear catalogue. Someone suggested the clutch I have is a replacement # but the clutch disc is 10" in diameter and has 6 springs and my car has an 11" clutch disc with 9 springs. Thanks for the help. I am in the process of removing the trans so will soon know if it resembles what's in the car.

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http://www.Packard120.ning.com
On May 16, 2009 Motor City Packards of Metropolitan Detroit held their annual Perrysburg Meet, this year at the Fremont, Ohio fairgrounds. Sure was a lot of fun. I missed a few Packards, sorry if it was yours! This video is dedicated to Bruce Blevins, who chaired this 29th Annual Event!