Thursday 7th May 2009

The tables are turned!

What does that mean?

The YouTube videos of Mal in action at the workshop is the explanation! Said to Wade I'd start on cleaning up the chassis. So after re-locating the trans from the tray it was sitting in and disposing of the dregs and lees from the trans cleaning it was into action. But unbeknownst to me Wade had picked up my camera and snapped what he thought were candid shots of Mal in action. And unbeknownst to Wade the camera was set on video, so I've uploaded the 3 shots/videos he took to YouTube, see links
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXXakQZ659E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8NAA_iOUUI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9dksnRR96A

EDIT - Looks like the YouTube videos don't work. But all is not lost, see pic's 106, 107 & 108 in the Picasa album.
http://picasaweb.google.com/ozstatman/WadeSWorkshopMay2009#

FURTHER EDIT - YouTube videos now working.

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Where I live, the local government goes after unused cars rather viciously. If it is visible from the road and unregistered, you can't have it. In other words, you'd have to park the parts cars in your garage and leave the good ones outside. I've had to register every parts car I've had including my 59 Edsel. By the end of the summer, that one will have to be stripped and scrapped since my good one is nearing completion. The local car-nazis (sorry if that offends) have lately decided that any car that doesn't start, move forward and back under it's own power is also junk. If you're turned in by some angry neighbor, you have around 15 days to set up an appointment with an inspector and demonstrate the operability of all vehicles present. If a car is down for something major, say an engine rebuild, then I'd have to prove current repairs.
Lately, they've been gunning for 1975 and later cars. I've seen many perfectly good cars get scrapped because of lack of availability of emission parts. You could take a 1970 and 1979 thunderbirds and put them side by side. The 1979 runs 90% cleaner and at least 10% more efficient than 1970. Yet, they only gun for the 79. Go figure...
Our older and really old cars are less than 10% of the cars on the road and they're only 2-5% of all miles annually driven but they're the easiest target. Just like going after smokers for all of society's ills.

Quote:

Very good point, and you're probably right. Hadn't thought of the hose OD factor. Another argument against those one-piece springs.

Owen,

Do you happen to have pics of Sherman-type and Wittek type clamps? The names are not familiar to me. Also, some might not be familiar with the "double-wire" type, (which might have a clever name, too).

Don't mean to make work for you, but thought it might be a nice addition to the thread, as long as we're at it.

BigKev,

Please let us know if the Permatex #2 works for you. It's basically like putting "stop-leak" where it does the most good.

As far as judging goes, I would imagine that a puddle of antifreeze under the vehicle counts more points off than a "non-period-correct" hose clamp. Like there's such a thing as a bona-fide OEM hose clamp!

The positive side of this thread is that there are several, rather innovative, solutions to the replacement of the dreaded BTV.

The negative side of this thread is that despite serious work done by many forum members, other forums members interested in a solution have not done their homework, i.e., they have not explored the resources on this and other sites. Otherwise, why the same questions over and over?

I do agree with Eric that any Packard owner with a BTV who drives it more than a few yards a year is risking his and his passengers life. I'm not in that category. I can drive my 55 Pat anywhere, anytime and still avoid "rice rockets" slamming their brakes on in front of me at 70MPH.

Craig

Hey Tom,

Thanx.....that'd be kool. My grandmother was
born in 1931! Same as your Rumble coupe! lol.
Great pics of the restoration!

took switch apart and was put together backwards. put it together right and works fine now. freewheels now but still does not go into od. will put bypass switch back across governor and road test to eliminate governor as problem. will keep you posted

Roman,

I have a '31 833 468 Rumble Seat Coupe. Been part of family since 1958.

You can see pictures at myphotobucket

I will be off for week in June if you like to swing by and Yes invitation is open to you to 120c or anyone else.

Keith, MUUUCCCHHH BETTER!!


As for modifying the master cylinder and brake booster in Packards, if you want to make an omelet you have to break some eggs. Nothing about modifying any car is easy, but if you want a safe car sometimes you have to think outside of the box. All these questions like "I need part numbers" and "where's a link" gets on my goddamn nerves. A select few of us go out and do the discovery work and the detective work to find out just exactly works in place of the original part and others expect people to just hand over the information without so much as a thank you, and get pissed off when you don't. The moral of the story is, no matter what the modification is, get off your arse, look at your car, and YOU decide what will work and what will not. If you're keeping the stock brake setup, fine, I hope you don't drive it that much and don't come down too many hills. If you want to modify your car to make it safer, great. Just quit asking me because I'm tired of explaining this shit 15 million times.

I Fixed it Eric. See if that's any better.

Hee Hee.

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