Looks awsome, I have a 39 henney hearse where do you get the door seals?

thank you

In the case of going to the trouble of putting a 727 in a Packard to replace is it really any cheaper that having the ultra fixed.

If you buy a 727 conversion kit, then locate a 727 and have it rebuilt then the installation how much is it going to cost. I bet that it would be cheaper just to get the ultra repaired.

I prefer to keep both of my vehicles very near stock. The Chevelle I have I am willing to make a few minor changes here at there but not many.

The 53 Packard will be bone stock for as long as I have it.

Some of the modifications people want to do such as electronic ignition and upgrading to disc brakes for me just dosn't cut it. The expense involved and for the few hundred miles a year that I drive my Chevelle, it's just worth not the dollars that would be spent.

On the other hand for those people that want to do those kind of modifications and other types of mods. I say go for it if that what you want.

Upon closing I would like to say that I have no intensions of posting in Packardinfo for 2008 anymore. See all of you in 2009.


John F. Shireman

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL

John F. Shireman

I agree with most of the opinions stated here. I love seing and operating old equipment (and cars) the way it was originaly. preservations and oem restorations are far more interesting to me than rigs that have been modified hevily.

however, i do see the value in small driveability mods like electric fuel pumps. I find these helpful, especially since i dont get to drive my packard all that frequently. it may be two weeks, and i dislike having to crank and crank waiting for the fuel to get up there. better air and fuel filters (not necissarily on packards) can sometimes be very helpful in preserving old engines. braking system mods are, IMO, perfectly fine. if you dont feel safe with a 50 or 60 years old system, or one with a bad reputation (treadlevac) then that is understandable.

However there is no excuse for chevy 350s and turbo 350 trannys.

I haven't tried this yet but when I posted it before someone said that they had done a couple and it works.http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

I think I would take off air cleaner and see the condition & watch operation of choke. It almost sounds as if it is not closing. When you press the pedal, the choke plate should quickly close to it's minimum setting assuming the engine is cold. Packard instructions were to slightly depress the acc. pedal & hold when starting car--that would close the choke but not pump the gas in.

Here goes another little bug I want to address.

The car runs great (thanks to all who helped me understand timing and how to get 'er done).

As to starting, here's a tiny issue, but one I want to perfect....

In the morning, and sometimes during the afternoon after the car has sat a while, I will turn the key to start it.

Sometimes, before I turn the key, I will press the gas peddle down once. Sometimes, I do not. I haven't quite figured a pattern to use to solve the problem, so I am more or less randomly trying different start-up procedures as far as to press or not press the gas first.

Okay, either way (I guess, since I don't see a pattern yet), the car will just start to fire and then, die. After that, I turn the key again. It might take 4-5 seconds or so, and then it usually fires right up.

So, why does it fire right out of the bag, then die, and then, not fire at all until after 4-5 seconds of turning the key?

I wonder if it immediately floods a little on the first try, preventing it from firing all the way up. That's kind of my thought since I have to turn the key 4-5 seconds to finally start it up, as if maybe I am having to burn off some gas (taking about 4-5 seconds) before it will fire up.

Thoughts?

Thanks for the additional suggestions. When I get back to the body shop next year, we'll take a closer look, keeping all your thoughts in mind.

In the meantime, tomorrow is an off-day around the house. Might like to tackle another issue on my Packard re: starting. See v-8. Thanks again, guys.

James,

A couple of pic's re my '41 gauge and sending unit. First is the removal of the sending unit fitting at the rear of the head, was "welded" in with corrosion but finally undid it! Broke the sending unit bulb off the capillary tube later - clumsy me!

Second is Ron of Mobile Instrument Service holding the unit he repaired, gauge, sending unit and cable.
Quote:
Dave,

In James' Owner Registry listing it shows:
YEAR: 1948
SERIES: 22nd
MODEL NAME: Custom 8
MODEL NUMBER: 2255
Does this help?

EDIT Pic's now added

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