HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL

John F. Shireman

I agree with most of the opinions stated here. I love seing and operating old equipment (and cars) the way it was originaly. preservations and oem restorations are far more interesting to me than rigs that have been modified hevily.

however, i do see the value in small driveability mods like electric fuel pumps. I find these helpful, especially since i dont get to drive my packard all that frequently. it may be two weeks, and i dislike having to crank and crank waiting for the fuel to get up there. better air and fuel filters (not necissarily on packards) can sometimes be very helpful in preserving old engines. braking system mods are, IMO, perfectly fine. if you dont feel safe with a 50 or 60 years old system, or one with a bad reputation (treadlevac) then that is understandable.

However there is no excuse for chevy 350s and turbo 350 trannys.

I haven't tried this yet but when I posted it before someone said that they had done a couple and it works.http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

I think I would take off air cleaner and see the condition & watch operation of choke. It almost sounds as if it is not closing. When you press the pedal, the choke plate should quickly close to it's minimum setting assuming the engine is cold. Packard instructions were to slightly depress the acc. pedal & hold when starting car--that would close the choke but not pump the gas in.

Here goes another little bug I want to address.

The car runs great (thanks to all who helped me understand timing and how to get 'er done).

As to starting, here's a tiny issue, but one I want to perfect....

In the morning, and sometimes during the afternoon after the car has sat a while, I will turn the key to start it.

Sometimes, before I turn the key, I will press the gas peddle down once. Sometimes, I do not. I haven't quite figured a pattern to use to solve the problem, so I am more or less randomly trying different start-up procedures as far as to press or not press the gas first.

Okay, either way (I guess, since I don't see a pattern yet), the car will just start to fire and then, die. After that, I turn the key again. It might take 4-5 seconds or so, and then it usually fires right up.

So, why does it fire right out of the bag, then die, and then, not fire at all until after 4-5 seconds of turning the key?

I wonder if it immediately floods a little on the first try, preventing it from firing all the way up. That's kind of my thought since I have to turn the key 4-5 seconds to finally start it up, as if maybe I am having to burn off some gas (taking about 4-5 seconds) before it will fire up.

Thoughts?

Thanks for the additional suggestions. When I get back to the body shop next year, we'll take a closer look, keeping all your thoughts in mind.

In the meantime, tomorrow is an off-day around the house. Might like to tackle another issue on my Packard re: starting. See v-8. Thanks again, guys.

James,

A couple of pic's re my '41 gauge and sending unit. First is the removal of the sending unit fitting at the rear of the head, was "welded" in with corrosion but finally undid it! Broke the sending unit bulb off the capillary tube later - clumsy me!

Second is Ron of Mobile Instrument Service holding the unit he repaired, gauge, sending unit and cable.
Quote:
Dave,

In James' Owner Registry listing it shows:
YEAR: 1948
SERIES: 22nd
MODEL NAME: Custom 8
MODEL NUMBER: 2255
Does this help?

EDIT Pic's now added

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I tested the original gauge this afternoon by submersing the tube end in a pot of hot (190F) water for a few minutes. The dash gauge moved only slightly off of "Cold". Too bad, I was hoping the original gauge was workable. I will keep the after market gauge for now.

Another option might be a bolt and a nylon insert lock nut-- usually the nuts stay pretty much where you put them.

Why not use a metal sleeve with a bolt and nut? That should allow it to pivot without affecting how tight the bolt is.