Quote:

Chris,

Welcome to Packardinfo. If you haven't already done so could you please include your newly acquired Packard in the Owner Registry with a pic and known history?

Again,

As the engine is turning over freely, you may have an easy time of it. I'd pull the valve tappet covers and make sure none of the valves are stuck; if so a bit of PB Blaster may free them up. Then I'd drop the oil pan and clean it thoroughly, replace and install clean oil. Chances are the fuel pump, lines or tank need service so you might want to rig a gravity gas can overhead to feel the carburetor and either give the ignition a tune or, postponing that till later, make sure you have spark. Just before I tried to start it for the first time, I'd put a tbs of motor oil in each spark plug hole and turn it over on the starter motor for a few minutes to distribute some oil and to make sure you have oil pressure. Optionally, you may want to remove the carburetor top and make sure the needle and seat and float are functional. If the car is stick shift, make sure the clutch hasn't frozen in place, or to be extra safe, jack the rear wheels off the ground.

So now I can answer my own question and thanks to those who offered advice. Left the front clip intact. Removed the hood, removed the fan and waterpump which permitted removal of the radiator. Removed flywheel and disconnected bell housing from block, removed front motor mount, and just lifted it out - cleared by an inch or better at both ends.

We have a Studebaker and Avanti which have had the exhaust manifolds jet Hot coated the cost was around $200 in 2003 per set they still look as the day installed. The cars are not daily drivers but cars that are used for cruises and summer cars shows. The coating is applied to inside and outside. They list quite a few colors. We are very satisfied with the look and the way they have held up having been on numerous trips of several hundred miles at highway speeds

Guys, I've got a 1940 Super 8 Henney Touring and we just found out that the block is cracked and unrepairable. I need either a 356 block, preferably with a '39 or '40 casting date, or a complete rebuilt/remanufactured engine. Anyone can help?

Thanks John, much appreciated!

Just a note, the head bolt nuts are corroded badly.

Chris Smith

Mal, if I am reading your last post correctly, then I believe that the correct fuel pump installation should have the following: a fiber-type bushing that goes into each hole through which the cap screws that attach the fuel pump to the engine block; also, there should be a fiber-type washer for each cap screw (the order would be: a fiber washer next to pump, then a steel washer, then a steel lock washer next to the cap screw head); in addition, you should have a fiber-type insulator between the fuel pump and engine block. It would be in the shape of the gasket and probably no more than 1/4" thick. You probably had some or none of this because over the years these insulators were not re-installed when fuel pumps were replaced or serviced. Many times rubber hose or copper tubing was used instead of the fiber bushings in order to "fill-up the hole". Regards - John

Thank you for your advice. Before I buy anything and start swapping pinions around I'm going to follow your suggestions, above.

The thing is, I DID bench test that governor and found no issues with it. It is only that the troubleshooting guide (Borg Warner) and Motors' both took me down to the "replace governor" conclusion.

I say often how much I enjoy having and working on this old car. I've never done any real work with cars before, so I'm learning as I go. The only really difficult spots are like this one now, where I face the prospect of unnecessarily spending ca$h for parts just to (effectively) troubleshoot the unit. Because if I buy the governor, and still have no o/d, then what? I'll be out money I couldn't afford and have nothing to show for it but a receipt. Well, we'll see!

I appreciate your help and patience.

Jay

Tonight when I have more time I will give the steps and details and preparation that should be done before trying to start the engine.

The method I learned was from a fellow who owned a Packard Dealership and was a Packard Master Mechanic. Brad Berry was a close friend to me and my wife for several years.


John F. Shireman

Hello everyone. Just acquired a 1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe. Currently restoring a '67 GTO convertible but I could not pass up this beauty.

My question is this car had been barn stored for about 10 years. I am anxious to try and fire her up but concerned about what 10 years of being idle has done internally. The car worked fine I know for sure when they parked it.

Should I be concerned and try turning her over? The engine is not seized as we turned it over manually.

1954 Clipper Deluxe Sedan : 327 I8???

Thanks