Does anyone know if a 1956 V8 Twin-Ultra trans will bolt up to a 1954 straight eight block?? Will the 1954 bellhousing bolt up to the V8 trans? Will the starter be properly aligned if I do that? Someone out there must have tried this already and I hope they read this forum

John,

Yes, the car is considered a classic by CCCA. It has never been to any shows, though I will probably take it to some local meets when I get it back to TX. It will give me a good excuse to do some driving .

Thanks for the comments.

Cheers,

Tom

Mal,

The hot rod is actually in Ron Gorman's shop. He was contracted by Tom to do some of the painting, as Tom's paint booth was quite busy. Ron has done classics before, though he is best known for his hot rod stuff.

The defective new gears were originally too big. Those were sent back, and the second set had something wrong that I can't remember. I think they were unbalanced (not properly finished after casting), but I will check with Tom to confirm.

Right now the car is at the upholstery shop. This is hopefully going to be the last stop before it is finished. Well, except for the usual tweaks and so forth.

Thanks for the comments.

Cheers,

Tom

Thanks Peter,

I knew you'd find the pump pictures fascinating, given your close attachment to the exhaust gas displacement principle of engine block and radiator flushing. Fascinating - there's no other word for it.

All the best.

G'day Mal, I have been thinking about that by-pass hose from the head outlet fitting to the rear of the head and I am not convinced that it will make the engine run cooler at all, as it simply by-passes the radiator and makes the pump less efficient at getting the water to the top of the radiator. I have always felt that one of the Packard Plusses was a decent size radiator. A simple experiment of blocking off the hose would test the theory, except that your car has a temperature gauge fitted in the hose itself, whereas Packards ran their gauges from the rear of the head. See if one of the guys in Sydney, Wade or Peter Lewer has an infa-red thermometer and check front and rear head and block temps after consecutive couple of minute runs, with and without the bypass operating. I am confident that it will run much cooler if the coolant is running through the radiator core. It would also be better to get the blocked-open shutters working as it will certainly run too cool in winter, use more gas and sludge up the motor. Best regards and love the detail pics of the pumps. Peter

BigKev,

Thanks. I must be going bigger than the pic size allowed. I'll have to call in my technical support, AKA #1 Son, to help me with it soon.

BTY just tried again, no luck, in fact I only managed to delete the picture of my '41 somehow!

Hi, dr,

From 750cc and 1200# to 6200cc and 4600#. Try to find a unifying theory in that!

thnx, jv

Ain't it the truth, Peter.

That's what made me shy away 25 years ago from attempting to procure $500 worth of new leather piston seals from Albert Trostel and Sons, the manufacturer of the replacement seals found in Bendix repair kits...the originals were made by Chicago Rawhide.

That and the $500 minimum order!

But that sheared compensator valve poppet and stem of yours might be used to refurbish an old stem with a bad seal. If you take a close look the part's design, there is a flange on the stem and a spring-steel speed nut that holds the rubber seal against it.

I seems to me, just from looking at the part, the speed nut could be removed (preferably by breaking it, and eventually replacing it with a new one of the same size), and the old rubber seal with the indentation, slid off the stem and replaced with the good seal from the sheared stem.
It's possible the old spring steel nut could be salvaged off the sheared stem by cutting the broken tip off right at the nut.

Keep the parts anyway...you never know when something stuck in an old Band-Aid tin will be useful!

Gauss of the Edsels

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