Thanks guys for all the ideas put forth so far.
I need to fill in some gaps about the motor. It has had a major overhaul. New pistons, valves, main and big end bearings,valve guides,cylinders re-bored and one re-sleeved.The side water jacket was renewed.A new honeycomb radiator fitted. Coil has been rewound. New timing chain and the sump repaired. About the only thing that has let the job down is the condition of the cooling system.
When I first drove it for the registration inspection it "vomited" for want of a better word and mud went everywhere - thick enough to appear like custard or jam. I have cleaned and flushed the system and have tried some coolant additive that lowers the water surface tension and lowers the running temperature by a few degrees. This has helped but not completely. I think the head especially is still quite dirty inside although not much debris or colour appears after a flush.
Couple of extra pics. My folks with the Packard during their courting days about 1948.
The engine block having the water jacket surface machined.

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My 1926 Packard tends to overheat particularly on hills. The engine block was extremely dirty and after many cleans and flushes the coolant is now reasonably clear. The running temperature is still quite high. There is a section in the Packard Service manual 1922-1928 about antifreeze solution and glycerine is recommended between 30 and 45% by volume mixed with water. Has anyone tried using glycerine as a coolant /antifreeze? Are there any risks to the motor?

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Can you fit a small piece of brass shim around the shaft to take up some clearance? Perhaps another way would be to drill a small hole in the bearing housing where the looseness is and tap a thread say 1/8" or 3/16". Fit a brass screw in the hole so that it gently pushes the shaft toward one side of the bearing. These sound a bit agricultural but may be a possibility. The only real fix is the have the bearing holes enlarged and rebushed and possibly a new shaft.

If you are polishing a piece of aluminium - not necessarily as large as a crankcase, steel wool and soap is a good way to achieve a good finish. Rub the steel wool (moistened with water) onto the bar of soap and apply to vigorously the aluminium. Deep scratches and marks will need to be dealt with before polishing. It is better to keep the action all in the same direction as you would when using sandpaper. When the surface is polished to your satisfaction degrease it with some solvent and apply a clear protective finish.

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Some years ago I removed the weights from my 333 engine by machining the crankshaft in a radial drill.
The bolt tops were machined down to the point where the weight would come off.

The remaining thread was then able to be grasped with a wrench and unscrewed. After the repairs were completed the weights were then refastened with high tensile socket head screws.

The holes were not filled to the top of the weight so that the screws can be accessed again. There does not appear to be any appreciable change to the engine vibration.

Here are a couple of shots of the restored body work.
Thanks to Mal for supplying them.
The rear section was removed years ago to make the car into a ute or pickup. The body shape was generated by referring to diagrams in Hugo Pfau's "The coach built Packard". Byron York sent some very good photos of window and door sizes and body shape. We are very pleased with the quality of the repairs.
There was no coach builders plate on the remaining part of the body. It seems as if it was a coach built model or a special order.

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Hi to all.
I have a question regarding Packards and aluminium bodies.
My 1926 333 Limo has such a body.It is right hand drive so I presume it was made for Australian customers. The only steel sections are the scuttle, bonnet and fenders and running boards.
Were aluminium bodies made by a particular coach builder or were they a made by special request?
Does anyone else have an aluminium bodied Packard?