Mine is au naturale, just like God made her. I'm thinking of polishing the case of my aluminum T/U and all the accessories including the p/b actuator, then covering them in high temp clear..... Might put me a plexiglass cover over the trans tunnel, too! (JK!)

Ok gentlemen, I got some more info on the aluminum heads for Packard V8's. We can get them for $2000 a set, that's as low as they can go until there's more sets spoken for. I'd like to buy a set, but I'm not buying 10 of them just to get one set for me. I need some help here people!!

I guess I should say that this is not an April Fools joke, it's for real.

I can have a run of 10 Caribbean 2X4 intakes made for $900 each, if anyone's interested. If we can get more than 10 sold, the price will probably go down. These will be totally factory in appearance, with factory part #'s, and factory fit. No one will know the difference when they're painted and on the car. It's also possible that I can get them cast with larger bores for larger carbs. Let me know what you think, and I'll see what I can do. If the majority wants "performance" intakes, then I'll try to get that done. Since the price of these are going up like mad, I think that the price is completely reasonable for what you get.

Technically, for 1956 ONLY, the make is a Clipper. Packard was trying to separate the two lines into distinct makes, and for one year, Clipper was on it own, so to speak. Once you get it titled, and it's time to have insurance put on it, have fun, because mine's under "1956 Studebaker/Packard" on my insurance receipt!

That's a nice looking Clipper! The first thing I would do since it's not stuck is to put a little 10W30 down the spark plug holes so it isn't dry when you crank it over. I would say that you should be able to get it to start pretty easily. Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get an oil pan gasket and drop the pan to clean out the gunk that I'm sure is in the bottom of it. It will also give you a chance to look over the oil pump to see what version you have. After that, dump in some new oil, pour some gas down the carb, and see if she fires.

As for the "D" and the "H", I use "D" in the city and "H" on the highway, but there's guy's who will just use "H" all the time. It's kind of a personal preference, but in "H", you're only using the converter, and in "D" you're using the gears in the trans plus the converter. It doesn't really matter which way you go, but the trans will last longer if you use "H" more often. If you have any trouble and have a question, send me an e-mail and I'll give you my phone #, much to the chagrin of my wife! (she calls me the "Packard Man", and says that she's amazed at the # of people that call me to ask about Packards!)

John (Mr. Pushbutton) gives excellent advice. He's the one who helped me get the shifter working in my car, and his advice is golden.

BTW John, the "Hybrid Synergy Drive" Patrician made it all the way home without skipping a beat, and then drove 60 more miles to my mother's house. I think she enjoyed your company as much as I did, as she sure ran great Saturday night!

I can, send me an e-mail, at turbopackman327@ msn.com, and I'll give you my phone #, and can walk you through it.

You'll notice the two air bags... This is where I plan on attaching the rear load arms of the T/L suspension to. I plan on modifying the arms extensively, however. It's too bad that I can't park my car for a while to do this, as I could trade my arms to KevinAZ for his old ones, as I'll be cutting off the ends to make this work. I'm not giving all my secrets up just yet, but from all sides this appears to be an easy job.... (and I'll eat my words later, I know!)

For those of you who were reading my list of "to do's" to the Pat, and can't figure out how I was going to put an independent rear suspension under it, here's a teaser to get your juices flowing:

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