Packard V8,
I am sure Updraft, who raised the question will be pleased top know the source of correct plugs.
Strangely I can't recall anyone commenting on the fact that I have modern plugs with adpaters, unless you look closely they look the same as the 7/8" plugs so I will stay with them.
I don't know what the correct 7/8" plugs cost but I am sure they are more expensive than my 14mm ones. Still I would prefer to get the correct ones.
The internet and e-bay have made most things available regardless of where we live, This forum is an excellent source of information, like for example OD's posting of the Autolite site and the one you posted.
Most of the parts I needed for my projects had to be found before the internet , in my case I had a huge "wish list" and I found most of them on 2 trips to Hershey . Since then most of them have come up on e-bay.
I would like to raise something to argue about but can't think of anything off hand!

Good question OD, I bought them at a local swap meet many years ago before we had the internet and I while I suspected that the correct plugs were probably available in US I assumed they would be very expensive and I was, at the time buying for 3 project cars (now all finished), 2 x 8 and 1 x 6, a total of 22 plugs. The adapters were inexpensive and I could then purchase the modern plugs easily and cheaply including future replacements. I obtained advice from the spark plug agent about the best plug at the time.
Today I would buy the correct plugs off the internet

Sorry if I confused the issue, There are adapters available that screw into the standard 7/8" spark plug hole that allow the use of modern plugs. I have them on my 126 & 633.
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/452-sparking-plug-adaptor

What a great web site for all of us who did no know about it, thanks Owen for posting.
I was going to suggest to Updraft that he use modern 14mm spark plugs with 7/8" adapters as I have in my Packards but if the correct ones are available then thats the way to go.
Also using thread adapters could affect the heat transfer from the plug and therefore the heat range.

I used the strapping from Restoration Supply Co for the Gabriel Snubbers on my 1922 Packard and it is an exact copy of the original and works well however as you know it needs to have something between each layer to reduce the friction and allow it to recoil. Shim brass was used originally and I used shim stainless steel. An alternative that may not need anything between the layers is the webbing that is used for safety belts. It should recoil without any other layer. I understand you can buy it in different widths. This idea came from Bernie who posts on the AACA site, perhaps if he reads this he will provide more details.

Try Restoration Supply Co for the webbinghttp://www.restorationstuff.com/

Those footrests are different to the ones I found for my 633, maybe I have the wrong ones. What model is your 1929?
Getting back to you original question , some simple repairs and they will make good patterns for brass castings, the slight shrinkage will not matter and the new ones will not break like the old pot metal ones.

I looked for years for the foot rest brackets for my 1929 633 and finally came across a set that had been reproduced from originals by sand casting in brass.
There are 2 casting processes to consider, sand casting and lost wax investment casting. Mine are sand cast ones and are fine, the sides have an inset area that is not easily accessible to polishing so that face is not as smooth as the faces that are polished. The lost wax process will yield a near perfect reproduction all over however it is a much more expensive process.
My view is sand cast brass is appropriate for these brackets. If money is no object, go for lost wax stainless steel but the end result will only be better on the closest examination. The other benefit of SS is that it does not need to be plated, just polished.
I have not used the company you mentioned but they would not last long if their work was not up to scratch.

Bernie,
Regarding the minor difference in engine and chassis number on you 126, my 126 has a similar difference as did a few other early series cars I came across. I was also concerned about this when I started on my car and was told by the "experts" at the time that it was normal for there to be a minor difference in the numbers. I doubt that it indicates an engine change with you car.
I have never found any information about the actual build dates. Mine has low numbers so I have assumed it was built in 1922 but it may have been sold in Australia in 1923. It seems we will never know that information.
David.

Hank,
I tried attaching a photo from the sales brochure, Don't know if it will work.
You asked whether it is a Holbrook body - looks like the standard Packard body to me.

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