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Re: Opening the Trunk - Packard Clipper Delux 1954
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Is there a chance anyone might know an easy fix to open the trunk on this Packard. The key fits fine and it turns all the way (with some tension) and it feels like everything is working fine but the trunk does not pop open or lift open? Can I get to the lock by moving out the backseat if I have to? My sense is that it needs some minor adjusting but I don't want to force anything because I dont want to break the key. I haven't done this since I was a "junkyard kid", and I am not familiar with Packard locks of that vintage. But here we go. The first thing you do is pull the crankcase dipstick and clean it. Then, remove the rear seat cushion. Once the seat is removed, there should be some opening into the trunk. Grasping a flashlight in one hand and the dipstick in the other, thrust the hand with the dipstick into the trunk, leaving room to insert the flashlight. If the Packard is like most locks, there will be a slot on the trunk side. Inserting the dipstick into the slot, and turning it, should open the trunk. If the slot isn't there, well I don't know; at least you had a good look around.
Posted on: 2009/2/25 21:36
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Re: What Kind Of Backer Board For Inside Door Panels??
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Material matching the OEM material is commonly available, all good upholstery shops use it routinely. Though I can't cite a source off-hand, try Restoration Specialties. Masonite is too thick and not flexible enough for a good job. After my first post, I stopped by my upholstery guy. What he uses is a material he gets through his supplier. It is black (not sure the color matters), single ply and about 1/8th thick. A cross between very heavy cardboard and masonite, more like masonite except no hard, very smooth, surface. Finish has more of a cardboard texture. I suppose you could think of it as very heavy poster paper. He tells me it is about $10.00 a sheet, which would be about 4' X 4'. He tells me it is commonly available trough any supplier. I used some I got off him a few years back. Seems to me I used a jig saw, but I suspect a very good knife would do.
Posted on: 2009/2/25 15:08
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Re: What Kind Of Backer Board For Inside Door Panels??
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My local upholstery guy always recommends masonite. Thickness is something less than a 1/4". I don't know what thicknesses HD and the like carry, there is a commercially available product. As to sealing the back, I don't know if there has been a change in technology, but most manufacturers use plastic sheeting of about 3mm.
Posted on: 2009/2/25 11:00
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Re: Ignition switch, '49?
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Your switch is indeed for the 22nd series cars. the holes are for the wrench used to tighten the trim nut. The button is labeled "TRANS" and has no movement. I doubt there is a switch in there. If there were nothing, would it be labeled at all?
Posted on: 2009/2/25 1:07
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Re: Looking for a core...
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What makes it un-rebuildable? It is only a cylinder, re-sleeving them is commonplace. Of course, if nothing is available and they have machine a sleeve, costs might get out of hand.
Posted on: 2009/2/24 16:49
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Re: Ignition switch, '49?
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I think mine looks like the 22nd Series, except that it came from a chrome dash car. I've attached a picture.
I am not real sharp on the post war cars, what year did they adopt the vertical radio in the dash? I notice this car has a switch (inoperable) for "Trans", is this meant for overdrive equipped cars? Attach file:  (77.61 KB)
Posted on: 2009/2/23 20:27
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Re: What have I got here, 1938?
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On my '38 120, with heater option, the heater fan rheostat is to the left of the radio. There is no hole for the defroster rheostat which would have been installed to the right. It was pretty dirty and cold down there, but my best recollection is that the defroster knob was to the left. The hole for the knob to the right was plainly drilled, that was obvious from the warp of the metal. Do you know of a source for knob? I can send you pictures of the defroster setup if that is any help to you.
Posted on: 2009/2/23 16:48
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Ignition switch, '49?
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I just pulled the ignition switch from a boneyard Packard. I believe it is a '49, but identity is hampered by a lack of trim and a missing firewall plate. In any case, it does not have a shielded cable to the coil. Was that gone by then? Only marking on it is E8488.
Posted on: 2009/2/22 11:42
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Re: What have I got here, 1938?
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Quote:"Yep that's a 38 dash. Now I have a question- there are 4 knobs or the holes for 4 knobs where the radio goes. I have a volume knob and a tuning knob,what are the other (outside) knobs for? Right now I have my turn signal lights in there." I got the heater out today and solved the "mystery of the knobs". As I mentioned above, the knob to the right of the radio is a lit rheostat for the heater blower. The incomplete knob to the left of the radio is also a lit rheostat switch, that one controls the defroster blower.
Posted on: 2009/2/20 18:41
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Re: What have I got here, 1938?
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"Yep that's a 38 dash. Now I have a question- there are 4 knobs or the holes for 4 knobs where the radio goes. I have a volume knob and a tuning knob,what are the other (outside) knobs for? Right now I have my turn signal lights in there." I went and took a look to figure out the "knobs" on the dash. To the left of the radio holes is a light, the bezel is missing but the bulb appears to be red. This is wired into the heater, without electricity I can't figure out the function. To the right of the radio holes is a rheostat for the heater, this also has a bulb in it.
Posted on: 2009/2/18 16:07
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