Just submitted info and picture for everyone on a dealership. If someone could tell me how to edit the information as I want to add to it. And I have a new scanner if someone can tell me how I might adjust it for a clearer picture. Thanks.

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Tried ground to case and to number 3 nothing. I got the rebuilt solenoid in today and put it in the car. I grounded the governor under the car and could feel and hear the solenoid operate. Take it for a test drive. Still not going into overdrive, and something else happened. After a few times of slowing down and then speeding up, the red light would not go out until I came to a complete stop. Before it acted normally, if you released gas pedal pressure it would go out. Now it does not. A simple clutch overhaul has turned into a nightmare.

I can only speak for the two cars that I own. A 39 12 sedan and 40 180. I have owned both cars for many years and restored both myself. Both of the cars were two or three owner cars and had very limited servicing for many years. I got a puller similar to the one in the picture. It bolted fine to both sizes of rear drums. You need to be very careful not to damage the drums as the drums can be on there very tight. On the 40 I was able to get them to pop only after alot of careful banging on the puller and some heat on the drum hub. On the 39 after much frustration, and again not wanting to damage the drums or the puller, an old timer told me to keep the nut about 1/2 to 3/4 turn loose and drive the car around until the drum popped. Which it did. Whether using the puller or the slightly loose nut be careful.

Here I am again. Having trouble with the overdrive again. I have had the transmission out several times in past years and never had a problem before. I suspect that it may be the solenoid, even though I feel it clunk when energized. On the road the red light and relay feel fine, but just is not going into overdrive. I pulled the solenoid off, I am not sure how to energize it from a spare 6 volt battery I have. Can you give me which numbers on the solenoid should be the 6 volts and possibly jumpered. I put my finger in the hole in the overdrive where the plunger rod would go. I can feel the pawl and can (after rotating the drive shaft by hand) go in about a quarter to half an inch. This locks the drive shaft from rotating in one direction. Does this sound at all correct? One of you mentioned that there is a boot in the inside that might restrict the travel of the plunger. I just went ahead and bite the bullet and order another rebuilt solenoid. So if we can't get this ironed out, I should have a spare in a few days. Thanks again.

no oops. I just want to thank you for even taking the time to help. This is an excellent site, that will benefit everyone involved with Packards. I have to work many hours each week, and have limited time to spend working on my Packards, so this site has saved me probably a couple of weeks of down time for the car. You can read the manuals, but it is a whole lot easier if you have starting points of where to check. I just hope one day I can help someone else. I have a 39 12 sedan, the 40 limo and 52 Mayfair. All I have restored myself. Thanks again.

Ok, got to spend a few quiet minutes on this, and thought I would do the easiest thing first from all of the suggestions. I pulled out the governor. Made sure I had continuity from inside points to the outside wire. Put it in a vise and spun by electric drill having an ohm meter connected to outside wire and ground. Could not get continuity. Opened up the top for the third or fourth time and bent the copper a bit, still nothing. One last try took out the gasket and put the lid back on. Guess what, it works. Well, I can leave it without the gasket or possibly buy a top from Max Merritt. What do you think? Thanks to all of you again (until it doesn't work again). Todd Los Angeles.

There is no reverse switch. I did not energize the solenoid when put back in this time, because when I had it out a number of years ago got it back in without doing so. So I think later today I will recheck the governor and energize the solenoid to take out and then put back in. But I do believe that the rod is connected. The solenoid is not upside down as I left the wires connected while servicing the clutch. You talk about binding, I do remember this last time the adaptor plate seems not to make a difference as to which direction, the shaft hole does seem to line up with the solenoid shaft. But, I will check again. So many good ideas thanks.

Went out for a minute before I need to run some errands. When grounding the passenger side of the lock out switch, the red light does come on. There is continuity between the two terminals of the lock out switch, it is 50 ohms which is alot, but probably has always been that way, may or may not be correct.

Thanks for all the advice. I will go out and play a bit later today. I did check the bulb with ohm meter, checked ok. Kickdown switch I just made sure the wires were connected. I think four wires, but not sure how to check these, which ones should show open or closed depending on position of the button. I did open the governor to carefully clean the points, pushed the little tab inside that pops the points closed and took the ohm meter from the end of the wire to inside contact and there was continuity. It looks new inside and when I spin by hand the two weights move and the inside spring does move up. Perhaps not enough, what I might be able to do is hold the governor in a jig and spin with an electric drill and check the wire with an ohm meter. As for the solenoid, I did not take any wires off, but one did come off and I put it back on. I can feel around the solenoid and that they are still all attached at this time. Something I thought of, is the solenoid is very tricky trying to get it hooked inside of the case. I am reasonably sure that this last time I did get it hooked as I pulled on it a bit and it would not come straight out of the hole. But, when bolting in plate the two bolts needed to put pressure on the solenoid to get it seated, I can't remember if this would be correct. Thanks again.

This site is wonderful. I just came across it the other day. Anyway, grounded the lock out switch (from passenger side) to chassis. Heare relay clunk and could feel the solenoid jump. Grounded from governor wire under car to chassis and again could hear the relay and feel the solenoid vibrate. If I could have the next check that would be good. One more thing I remember from the last time I took it on a test drive, the red light in the dash did not light up. Does that narrow it down a bit. I did check all of the fuses with an ohm meter, they checked ok. I could have missed one but I don't think so. Thanks again.