After trying everything I could think of and read about in these blogs, I must rebuild my ultramatic. The car runs fine in low , gos ok in reverse, but barely crawls in high. When I say barely, I rev the engine a I might go two miles an hour. Can anyone tell me how tall the ultramatic is? I'll have to jack up the car to that height plus the height of the transmission jack I purchase. I feel that I have to replace the high range clutchs. I did all the recommended adjustments, the fluid level is proper, it just won't go in High.
Thanks in advance

Thanks everyone for the advise on the removal of the water distribution tube. What I finally did was to get a six foot piece of the metal strapping we have at work (3/4" width) and ran it top, bottom, and both sides of the tube.
It came out very easily when I used a six foot piece of 5/6" diameter threaded rod with a 90 degree bend at one end to hook into one of the tube's holes. The last couple of holes were somewhat clogged. Hopefully that was the running hot problem. Once again, thanks everyone.
Casey Rog

Gusha,
Thanks, for the pictoral. The broken wing is sitting on my work bench should I ever need it. I bought another cormorant on e-bay last year (with intact wings) which I have on the car now.

Thanks, David.
I had the radiator cleaned and soldered at a radiator shop last year so I don't think that's the problem. I'll have to check out the water pump to make sure it works properly.

I have a 51 300 which is running hot after I drive it for about 20 minutes. It has not overheated yet since I park the car when the temperature gauge hits the 3/4 mark. I removed the water pump but cannot get the water distibution tube out of the engine block. I tried the bent wire hook but to no avail. I quit trying when I felt that I had distorted the hole in the tube I was pulling on. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I might remove the tube?
Thanks,
Casey Rog

'51
When I was younger I would build wooden model airplanes. To cover the wings and body we used tissue paper and dope.
the dope would make the tissue stiff, but not heavy and still flexible. I have repaired speakers with the same method. The tissue was light enough to vibrate with the rest of the speaker. The method is to fit the patch over the hole, hold the tissue over the hole and wet the tissue with water to conform to the shape. Before the patch is completely dry, put the dope on the patch. The airplane dope will soak thourgh the tissue into the speaker making a perfect light-weight patch that will not interfere with the movement of the speaker. I should mention to only use the tissue paper used on model planes which should be available at a decent hobby shop ( if you can still find one)

51,
Just about all the welding I have done is on the fenders. I filled in the tacks so they were about 1" apart. The trick is to avoid building up too much heat. The slab sided of the 51 will warp very easily if they get too hot.

I had the same problems you have with welding sheet metal. I
also have a cheapo flux wire welder. What worked for me was lowering the wire feed speed to 1. Put the welds on about 6" apart so a lot of heat is not build up, then go back and weld between the 6" welds.

1949,
Thanks for the info. I did take the back of the clock off,
oiled it with some zebco reel oil, and the clock statred to tick. The clock does run when I manually wind it ( by rotating the electric winding mechanism. However, the light socket does not work, eventhough the bulb is good, so, I suspect that I will have to clean all the contacts or replace the wires. This clock was made by the George Borg
Corp. of Chicago. It could have been made in my old neighborhood. Used to make all kinds of stuff in my old neighborhood form Simonsen toolboxes, to Schwinn bikes, to Johnson ice skates, ot O'Henry candy bars.

I'll try that very carefully,
Thanks