You can find KD tools on-line athttp://www.sjdiscounttools.com/manufacturers-kd-tools.html. I did a qucik check and did not see a #815.

They may have changed their part numbers. Maybe you can get the diameter of the #815 from Qwen_Dyneto that he used. Or maybe a phone call to KD at(800) 688-8949 might help.

GREAT - Thanks for the offer. I'm sure that I'll have plenty of questions. Most of he small stuff is in boxes and since I didn't take it a part I know that it'll be a challenging experience.

Glad to hear that you found the nut you needed. While I have not used them before, FMW Fastners (http://www.fmwfasteners.com/) appears to have a great selection of nuts & bolts.

Good luck on the task at hand.

Since the last report I decided that I would make the insulation board that goes between the inner and outer metal firewalls instead of buying one from "Quite Ride" or Max Merritt. This decision was based on answers that I posted on another site and the input from several users there as to what they had done.

I went with ?" MDF, which was about 1/8" thicker than the metal bushings that were in the remnants of the old one. I used an electric plane to get the thickness down to 5/8". I then cut a piece of thin cardboard that fit the outer firewall to use as a pattern for the various holes. Forstner bits were use to drill all the holes except the large ~3" holes where there were hardwood bushings where the hood braces connect the firewall and radiator. The 3" holes were cut using a fly cutter in an electric drill.

A router was used to cut reliefs in the MDF board where there were places where the steel protruded and to cut the grove for the vacuum line. Final fitting afterwards took about four to five hours of trial and error (seemed like most error with a lot of trial). Once everything fit the board was given 2 coats with an oil based wood primer. On the outer side of the board I decided to laminate it with aluminum foil to reflect heat back into the engine compartment. I ended up using the "heavy duty" foil that you can find in super market and 3M spray adhesive.

To finish off the project, rust was removed where necessary from both firewalls and then the metal prepared and primed with a 2K primer. Low spots on the outside section of the outer wall were filled with a lightweight body filler. Two more coats of 2K primer were sprayed on and allowed to cure for several days. It was then sanded ending up with 400 grit paper in order to obtain a smooth finish before spraying with 3 coats of black acrylic enamel. The last coat being a wet one with extra reducer to yield a non-orange peel finish.

Overall everything turned out nice looking, but was more involved that I thought it would be. The trial and error portion was more time consuming than what I thought it would be. Guessing more time should have been spent on making the cardboard template rather than yielding to that "lets get started on this thing" urge. Oh well I saved at least $170 and enjoyed the project.

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What type and source for nails? I'm getting ready to install the doors on my 901 and to begin the process of bolting the body to the frame and aligning the doors.

I was wondering what type and size of nails I should use for reattaching the metal around the doors and installing the rain gutter over the doors. I was thinking they should be a stainless steel ring shank maybe 15 gauge.

Also, if anyone knows of a link to a site where someone has already done this it would be of great help.

As I remember you have everything well painted. If so and if all you are looking for a lubricant to assist in assembly, then why not try just plain water. If that doesn't work, tire shops use water with a little soap (Dawn should be a good choice) to improve the slipperiness. Soapy water doesn't seem to bother the rubber on tires.

Thanks To All. I really appreciate the help.

Didn't get much done on the car the week before. The wife and I decided to get in the RV and go out with some friends on a local trip.

This past week was focused on working on the insulation board between the two firewalls. The one that came with car was a pile of pulp. I still have not decided if I'll make one or buy one from Quite Ride.

The car had the anti-thief wall sitting in place (no bolts) without a board. Since the engine was already installed in the car, it was impossible to just remove the firewall. So I unbolted the body from the frame, leaving it attached to the wood sills. Jacked it up and placed it on pipe rollers and then push it back several inches. Not a big thing, just a pain in the rear.

The inside area of the anti-thief wall was lightly coated with rust while the outer part was primed with only several small areas showing signs of rust. Got out the trusty grinder and installed a stiff rotary wire brush to knock off the rust and get down to good metal on the inside and to scuff up the outer primed side. On the outer side the brush was used to get to metal where there were rusty areas.

The inside area of the inner firewall had been primed many years back by the previous owner, but there were some areas which were showing signs of rust beginning to develop. These were attacked with the wire brush.

That is where the firewall project remains for now as we are looking at 5 days of rain in sunny Southern California. When it stops, I'll roll the car out of the garage and shoot the inside sections of both firewalls and the outside section of the anti-thief wall gray "Rust Bullet". The outside part of the anti-thief wall will then be sprayed with gloss black enamel.

In addition, I attacked the steel on the driver's seat frame with an extremely stiff rotary wire brush in the grinder since it had a worse case of rust than the firewalls. Was unable to finish the seat before the storm hit, but will wrap it up as soon as the sun makes its way back into our lives. If there are any real stubborn areas of rust or areas where the brush can't get into, I'll use some Krud Kutter (a phosphoric acid rust remover) to finish it off. The frame will then be sprayed with black Rust Bullet.

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I don't know why I didn't think about the reference book and the pictures will be a great help in searching for the pan.

Thanks To both Tbirdman and Dave -

Best Regards - Marty

I hope to keep the blog reasonably up to date and I'm shooting for weekly (unless of course I'm out of town).

Right now, my main push is to get the body ready for final paint. I just picked up most of the stuff I need for priming (will be using an epoxy primer). There are two areas on both sides where I need to replace some metal (~ 1 sq. ft) just in front of the front doors.

In between body work, I want to figure out how the brakes and clutch pedals connect to their operating parts. The previous owner has all of the cables for the brakes almost installed but there are several tie rods that still need to be connected.