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Board index » All Posts (martysplace)




Re: Is this a 1933 model?
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Marty or Marston
The exterior color is similiar to this ad

Posted on: 2013/8/25 18:53
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Re: Ultramatic ATF
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Marty or Marston
The Ultramatic in my '51 was leaking and making some ugly noises of several different varieties. After much internal debating about a rebuild to solve the problem, I opted for changing the downshift seal and the pan gasket with a refill of the box with Type F and a wait and see attitude.

After driving for about 25 miles the various noises disappeared. I have racked up about 1000 miles on the car since then.

P.S. Sorry that I did not respond sooner as most of my time is spent on the Pre-War side as I spend most my time restoring our '32 901.

Posted on: 2013/8/21 2:19
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Re: 282 head stud installation:
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Marty or Marston
While it may not be a KD - try your local Napa dealer.

Posted on: 2013/5/25 10:05
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Re: The bigger question
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Marty or Marston
What is your final goal for the car when it is finally restored and how much do you want to spend (time, effort, and money)? To have a concourse car and time and money is not of concern then the body should come off.

However, with enough effort the body that is now exposed can be properly prep'd and painted. The final outcome should look very good and this is the path that I would follow.

Posted on: 2013/5/15 11:56
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Re: The big question
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Marty or Marston
Dirt, grime, and grit is the major thing that you need to be concerned with. With the pan off, the lower end must have some of these things clinging to all of the surfaces that have been opened. Make sure that gets completely clean before putting the pan back on.

While the pan is off, I would use plastigauge to measure bearing clearances. I my own opinion, I would replace the seals. But you could remove the crankshaft end caps and examine how pliable the seals are.

Also, this would be a good time to replace the freeze plugs with brass ones.

Posted on: 2013/5/15 11:36
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Re: Our 1932 901
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Marty or Marston
I've been on the "Pre-War (1899-1942)" portion of the Forum seeking answers to assist in installing the brake and clutch pedals, parking brake, fenders, and splash aprons. Fitted with the information, I see that I'm missing or can't find some of the parts required to install the pedals and parking brake.

In the interim, I installed a new gas line from the tank to the carburetor. Used 5/16" Ezibend. The tubing that is visible in the engine compartment was sanded with Wet-Or-Dry paper going from 320 to 2000 grit. It was buffed to give that nickel plated look while the fittings were chrome plated using Caswell's Nickel Plug N' Plate (but using the dip process which is much faster).

The radiator shell along with the headlight bar was sent out for chrome plating. The radiator was installed along with the Sylphon thermostat. I got an assist on the install of the thermostat from good members on the Forum. The radiator shutter and shell were installed. It should be noted that while the holes on any two individual pieces lined up good, when the three were all put together it was a big no-go. After reworking 8 holes and elongating 6 additional holes the trio is now installed on the frame.

On installing the parking brake, I needed to make a bronze shim for the parking brake handle as the hole on the handle was 1.05" ID and the shaft is going to be mounted on was 0.75" OD. After digging through my various parts bins I found the sprocket bar (or whatever the thing is called) that the tooth on the handle engages to keep the lever locked. But at last the parking brake is installed.

On Sunday I started installing the hood panels, working on the top two (left & right). It appears the radiator shell and probably the radiator/shutter too will required some more adjusting in order to get the hood pieces to line up better. Since it was getting late in the day I decided that a fresh look at things might be the best approach at solving my hood misfit challenge. So I opened my first beer of the day at 5:00 pm, sat in a chair to relax and watched the sun as it headed towards the western horizon.

Posted on: 2013/3/26 0:31
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Re: Brake & Clutch Pedals and Parking Brake on a '32
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Marty or Marston
I found all the parts that were needed to connect the parking brake and finished installing it this past weekend. Completed most of the work on the clutch and brake pedal installation.

I do seem to have one major problem in that I cannot find the fitting that hold the brake and clutch pedals on. I have the brake switch and need to check it out as it appears to be in need of some TLC.

Does anyone out there have an extra fitting or know where one may be purchased.

Thanks to all for your assistance.

Posted on: 2013/3/26 0:08
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Re: 28 526 roof wood framing
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Marty or Marston
Ray,

Thanks for your service and keep safe. Yes, 4 years makes a world of difference.

I found this little bit of info on the web about ash versus oak in car construction;

"Unlike the oaks, however. Ash lumber has no tannic acid. This means that when it contacts metals, it will not cause corrosion. This made it the wood of choice for car companies when wooden frames were the standard. The lack of tannins makes it unsuitable for exterior use, though. It has no built-in rot resistance. This was the trade off for the makers of the model T. Wood was actually fairly common in cars until the 1970's. The "Woodie" station wagons exposed their members. Volkswagen beetles and Mercedes continued to use wooden ribs in their convertibles (usually maple) until fairly late. The Morgan company of England
( www.morgan-motor.co.uk ) still uses ash frames to this day. "


athttp://www.alamohardwoods.com/ash-lumber-alamo

Posted on: 2013/3/24 9:55
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Re: 28 526 roof wood framing
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Marty or Marston
Here are the followup photos that I promised. They show how the bows look and how they are fitted to the top of the car.

While you can't see it, there is a wood screw that comes down from the top to hold the tenon that is a part of the bow on the right side of the car. On the left side there is a spline that goes into the wood on the main part of the roof. The spline sticks out and the grove in the bow allows the bow to be slipped on to the spline. There is a wood screw that holds the spline to the main part of the roof with no screw being used in the bow through the tenon.

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Posted on: 2013/3/23 20:15
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Re: 28 526 roof wood framing
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Marty or Marston
The opening on my '32 901 is ~40 ?" by 81". It has 7 bows the 1st one (from the front is 1 ?" wide and 1 ?" high. The remaining bows are ?" wide and 1" high. They are made of a hardwood probably oak, but could be ask or hickory. Between bows 4 and 5 there is a support for the dome light (see photos).

The main criteria is that the roof line must flow in a nice curve going from front to back and from left to right. The bow serve as the platform on to which 1" chicken wire is nailed. Cotton goes over the wire, then cotton muslin, and finally the top material. The goal is to have it all flow in a very naturally flow across the top with no lumps.

Let me know if the size of your opening is close to mine. If it is I'll trace the profiles of my 7 bows and mail them to you. I'll also try to get pictures of them this weekend. Also, I'd use a water proof glue like Tite Bond III for gluing the new ones in.

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Posted on: 2013/3/23 10:47
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