This is from a '54 diagram. But it should be almost exactly the same as not much changed as far as the ignition and charging system is concerned.

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Bob,

They secure the outside door handles to the door itself on the 51-56 models. Basically you hold the door handle in place against the door, and then you slide in the the clip through the hole on the door jam to secure the door handle in place. If you open your door and look on the door jam at the level where the door handle is you will see a rectangular cut our in the jam where the clip slides in. The problem is that the clip is on the out side of the glass, so when it rains, water leaks down the glass and onto the clip. This basically rusts it, and makes it very difficult to remove.

Here is a picture of what the new beryllium-copper versions of the clips from PI look like to get an idea. (top and left in the picture)

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If I remember right those stainless tanks were over $1,000.

The maker used to post on here all the time, but quickly wore out his welcome.

Frank in addition the the Service manual (which is also available for download) make sure you download copies of all the Service Counselors (SCs), and the Service Technical Bulletins (STBs). As they contain running changes that are not in the service manual. You really need the 1953-1956 SCs and STBs. As some changes were made in '53 as the '54 starting selling in the fall of '53, and the running changes extended through at least '56. Some changes are even in the Studebaker Service Bulletins (SSBs).

Brian (BH) is working on the Service Index for 1951-54 which will be alot like the 55-56 Service Index feature here. That will give you a short cut to all the various service updates and which publication they are found in.

For those that always wanted a 1956 Caribbean in your garage:

http://www.danburymint.com/diecast/prod/1956-Packard-Caribbean-Hardtop_11271.aspx

The latest piece of software I am writing has about 450,000 lines of code if I look at the various libraries that make it up.

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I actually enjoy those also. Nice to see car mags written from a non-corporate point of view.

The original 6v starter motor is in place. I just changed to a 12v solenoid.

If the starter motor ever becomes a problem, then I will just get it redone or find a suitable replacement. But I have found other people that have done this and have never had a problem with the starter motors. But the 6V solenoids tend to burn up and get stuck on when running 12v through them.

Removing retainer clips on the 51-56 Models.

The clips rust and are really a pain to remove. First soak the hell out of the them with PB Blaster. Wait 24-48 hrs.

If you cant pull them out of the hole in the door jam with a pair of needle-nose visegrips, then this is the back up procedure.

1) Use a heat gun to heat the plastic door lock knobs, once then get warm and soft your should be able to pull the plastic off the metal shaft.

2) Once that is done, unscrew the window garnish moulding (window surround) and remove it.

3) Now roll the window all the way down. You should be able to see then entire door retainer clip now. Spray the hell out of it again with PB, let soak.

4) Now use a drift to tap out the rusty clip though the hole in the door jam.

The Packards International San Diego chapter sells new retainer clips. Every door (Front , back, left, right) uses a slightly different shaped clip. The ones from PI SD are made of beryllium copper, so they are guaranteed not to rust. I bought an entire set from them a couple years ago. Not cheap, but you do what you have to do.

Nice! I have left long winded comments in code before to remind myself of something later on. But these are not visible to anyone else. Just to keep me from going "What the hell was I thinking when I wrote this 2 years ago".