Before cutting you might want to double or triple check the size of the glass and rubber seal versus the size of the opening. If I recall correctly, the glass for a '55 convertible is 1" narrow than a hardtop.

Remember the old adage "Measure twice, cut once".

I had problems with a Steele gasket on the rear window of my '32 901 sedan. I used black polyurethane sealant from Home Depot to fill in the gaps. It blended in perfect.

Problem solved. The issue occurred while I was troubleshooting a TL problem that was traced to the limit switch. During the testing, the levers on the CLB were move back and forth by using the shorting procedure on the TL Controller on terminals A & B. I noticed that the lever on the right side was no longer engaged with the CLB after a good limit switch was installed. Because the levers were moved back and forth the lever on the right side was out of position. The shorting procedure was used to determine what flat on CLB the lever should go on. Once this was done, t lever was installed and all is working fine now.

Thank You Riki and Howard for your thoughts and inputs.

How would that be accomplished?

MORE INFO:

Reading in Section 16 I see where the arm needs to be positioned (Fig. 22, pg 10). Also, that it is slipped on the Levelizer Bar when the car is level. However, the rear of the car is much higher than the front. Shorting out terminals A & B on the Compensator Control Switch (CCS) doesn’t get the car level.

The right-side arm that attaches to Compensator (Levelizer) Bar (CLB) has slipped off of the hexagon part (see photo). The flats on the arm are mid-way between the flats on the opening on the flats on the CLB. How can I determine which flat on the CLB goes with the flats on the arm. Also, what is the easiest way to get them to align?

Right now, the rear of the car is higher that the front.

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If your goal is the have a 6 volt battery backup source, why not consider one of the sealed cell golf cart batteries
? Since they are a sealed cell there is no off gassing and should be non-corrosive in your car's trunk. If maintained by recharging every 2 months or so it should last for years.

Back to my initial post, IMO a 6 volt starting system in our Packard's is a very reliable system. The main source of slow cranking speed is under sized wire, bad connections (e.g. rust, corrosion, etc. especially on the ground side) or a worn out starter that needs a rebuild.

Why a booster and not a trickle charger to maintain charge? Are you having problems with starting the engine because of slow cranking speed?

Ref: 4530

FYI - My opinion on the colors for the '56 Caribbean is that they don't do the sporty look this car can and should have

White Convertible Top
Black Upper
White mid section
Black Lower

Is not a standard combination in '56 and doesn't present the car very well. For 85K you would think the seller might post more the 2 pics.

I had an occasional noise problem on my '51 when it would try to lockup. I changed the fluid to B&M Trick Shift (posted above). While it didn't completely eliminate it, it made significant improve it getting rid of the rattling noise.