Friends


I will be there Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. Wandering around but will be at the PAC tent a lot.

Best Wishes !

Todd

I kind of remember buying them for that car when I bought it and loosening the when I was try ing to move the engine around. They would be visible and accessible when the access panel is removed. Should be about 1/3 to 1/2 back in either side bolted to the frame and to the engine right above the crankcase. It is entirely conceivable that they got left off at some point.

I will check the parts book later, but it is my memory that they are on 160/180s but not the Clipper chassis. It may be possible ! am conflating things with my 48 Custom 8.

Best

John

Todd

The two bolts that go into the water jacket need to be sealed or you will be doing the job over again soon. I always use the Indian Head shellac for these jobs. It is inexpensive and doesn't cause problems like some of the modern stuff. The brass washers for those two bolts can be found in the plumbing section of a well equipped hardware store.

You want to replace the front rubber engine mounts, the ones on the car will be "perished" as they say in the UK. Your car will have side engine mounts also , which Packed called stabilizers. Do those, too. Kanter has repros, probably also Merritt. They are rubber vulcanized on steel affairs.

My garage is a rental unit where my apartment is. Barely larger than my car, it also has no electricity . This Job took me a number of weeks working on and off because of finding things out the hard way and the garage is a chore to work in .

My car was a 41 160, which is much more inaccessible. I decided the only correct way to do this is to find a couple of leprechauns who owned the scaffolding and pulley arrangement like they use to wash the windows on sky scrapers. I gather they went back home when the economy got better there, they weren't lining up at my door.

Best

John

Todd

I went through this several years ago with a a 160 that I no longer own. You need to jack the right side of the car up, take off the wheel and remove the access panel in the wheel well. Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the yoke holding up the engine at the front. Probably easier to do this with a socket and many extensions from the top before you jack the car up.


If you still can't jack the engine up, the clamp holding the exhaust down pipe towards the bottom to the engine ( or clutch/transmission housing, I don't remember which, ) is the culprit. Take the nuts off and remove the u shaped piece off and you can jack the engine up as high as you need.

It took me numerous session underneath the car the figure this out. I had loosened the side motor stabilizers and a bunch of other stuff by this time.


I have levered a new belt on the crankshaft pulley. Drape it around the generator and water pump from the top after loosening the generator and pushing it towards the block. On the right side, I levered it on with one of Owen Dyneto's tomato stakes, after smearing some chassis grease on it to help it slide over the pulley.

John

Ben

The Fords and Chevies are the off makes, not Packard!

That little tower is some sort of device to smooth out the pump impulses. None of my cars have had it and they have not suffered!

Friends


I was going to write something in the thread about the value of club dues, but this covers the same ground .

I was President of the late lamented Eastern Packard Club during the run up to the Packard Centennial , and then again two years after. The City of Warren was planning a centennial celebration in conjunction with the opening of the museum. About two years before the date, upon inquiry , it became apparent the city fathers might need a lot of direction and help.

George Hamlin, of the PAC took the reins .He sent letters out for help. People stood up. I was on the distribution list of the bulletins he sent out about the progress . I wish now that I had saved them. It was a lot of work with the attendant frustration.

The intent was to invite all Packard organizations to have concurrent meets during the week. The EPC ran two tents of speakers on Monday, and organized the final dinner. These was actually entirely organized by the late Melva Macentee, who should remembered for heroic efforts, especially when a banquet tent as blown over during the meal.

As these things happen, the good intentions and hard work of the PAC was interpreted by some as keeping other organizations out. This caused me to be involved in a few surreal episodes.

The older clubs like the PAC, and CCCA for example, get a lot of guidance from what my father called "curbstone senators". This also applies to some of our legacy vendors. These people kept the cars alive for us long ago when they were worthless and candidates for recycling . They also planned a lot of large events. They deserve our thanks and support .

For various reasons endeavors these things are happening less often. The clubs and vendors depend on us to keep them going. Moreover, one can make lifelong friends.

Best Wishes for the New Year


John Harley

"Stainless steel didn't get (accidentally) discovered till WW2."

Stainless Steel was invented by Elwood Haynes ( as in Haynes Apperson) before US entry in WW I because his wife was complaining about polishing the silverware.

He was trained as chemist, and built the first long distance gas pipe line. He had the Apperson brothers build an auto around his ideas in 1893/94 to make inspection of the pipe line easier.

Best

John Harley

H.E.

I've done this job more than once.

The critical measurement on the head is side to side rather than the length. They all seem to bow a little down the length but that straightens out somewhat if it is not too much.

Chase the threads on the studs and the nuts. if you have time , order hardened washers from Mc Master or someplace, this will make the torque hold better. I have also read about finishing the bottom of the nuts with about #300 or so sandpaper to make friction on the bottom of the nuts consistent .

Torque according to specs in stages.. Torque hot after first running the engine and then at may be 50 miles , 100 miles and 500, or something like that . The long heads take a number of tightenings to settle.

Best

John Harley

Joe


The bolts that go into the water jacket will need sealer otherwise they WILL leak. I use the Indian Head shellac. I bought a car one time where this was not done and it caused a cascade of problems.


Best

John Harley