The diagrams are correct. Everything gets its juice through the lighting switch on the steering wheel. I think the problem lies in the adjusting screw, which I'll mess with more this weekend to see if I can get it worked out. Look on pages 47 and 48 of the 1929 Service manual dealing with changing or adjusting the stop lamp switch. In the typical useless manner that those manuals describe everything, it's like "Step 1: Replace Switch" then, "Step Two: Adjust switch until pedal is 1-1/2" off the floor board." Which is a bit nonsensical when it comes to a '29 Packard - the brake pedal doesn't go through the floor board, it goes through the toe board, which they're usually adamant at calling such. Also, if you can get that brake pedal to go to within 1-1/2" of that toe board, you'd be pressing the brakes through the drums! With the brakes fully engaged and locked, the pedal is a little over halfway down and always has been. And again, the lights worked fine before I took the tranny out last June. It's gotta' be something with that crazy screw. Thanks much and I'll keep you posted as to what the gremlin is!

This is the switch and adjusting screw in question. The reverse light comes off the top of the transmission but is somehow involved with the power supply to this switch, as when I first started it back up, the reverse lights stayed lit whenever the headlights were on. I switched this plug around and the reverse lights and tail lights now work correctly.Im thinking the issue has to do with the black adjuster screw which engages a brass or copper plunger at the side of the switch (shown disengaged here). You depress the brake pedal, that screw moves away from the plunger. The silver coated wires are encased in a block of solid solid rubber which simply has contacts at the end to touch the two contacts in the switch. Car doesn't have a fuse box, only has one fuse! I could rest the two contacts inside the switch I suppose.

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Okay, over the summer I took the transmission down out of Sophie, my '29 Club Sedan because the clutch was beyond shot and the pressure plate wasn't much better. Dropped the tranny, sent the clutch and pressure plate off to Ft. Wayne Clutch (they did a superb job and reasonable price), polished the flywheel until it looks like a shiny new silver dollar and cleaned all the sludge out of the gearbox. Put it all back together (took 3 months) and it's running and driving better now than it has since I bought it back in 2020 - BUT, one maddening problem, my brake lights aren't working.

Brake lights worked before the operation. I realized I had the plug on the side switch 180 degrees out of sync when my reverse lights were coming on when I turned my headlights on. Switched that connector around, tail lights and reverse lights work correctly now, but I cannot get the brake lights to work. There is an adjuster screw on the front of that switch that seems to connect with a plunger coming from the switch. No matter what I do with that screw or where it hits or doesn't hit, nothing lights up when I push the brake pedal. And I doing something drastically wrong with that screw or is there something else I should be looking for? Thanks much guys!

Thanks guys, looking at them there only seems to be that one metal-shrouded wire, so, appreciate suspicions confirmed - now I just gotta' get new bulbs, they're both blown!

Sorry for the dumb question. My '29 has Trippe lights on it that have never been hooked up. I bought a "Unity" brand switch off eBay to work them with and was going to wire them up while my car's down getting the clutch rebuilt. Come to find out, both bulbs were blown, so, got some of those on the way. There's only the one metal-covered wire coming out of the big lights, do they ground through the mounting bracket that hooks them to the front bumper frame? Thanks, and once again, sorry for a dumb question!

Sorry to be late to the dance on this, but every 1920s Packard I've seen runs fairly high oil pressure, seems to be normal on these cars. My '29 runs straight Lucas 30 weight zinc-infused oil (I'm in Louisiana, it's always warm here), and the engine idles at 35-40 psi, at speed it usually stays at 40, at higher speeds it will go to 45 or 50. Been driving it like that for four years, it's never caused a problem. Friend in Texas has a '30 coupe, it does pretty much the exact same thing. I don't think you've got anything to worry about. Fantastic car and love those headlights!

They're not factory. I have a '29 and mine doesn't have them, I've looked at a lot of late 1920s/early 1930s Packards, have never noticed any with those holes before.

I think the previous guess is correct, somebody probably drilled them to mount road lamps at some point in the car's life. Although why they did this on the cross bar is a bit odd, most of them were made to connect to front bumper mounts or to the bars themselves, but there really wasn't a need to drill holes unless you really were over-the-top about hiding wiring.

That is some amazing wood work!! I've seen a lot of classics restored and wood is always the most feared part of the job, that is some outstanding work you're doing!

Okay, I've had my 633 for almost two years now and have never been super happy with the clutch. Compared to others I drove long ago, the clutch pedal is almost non-existent.

Just adjusted the rod again, it's almost all the way out, maybe a 1/4" left at the most. The clutch is engaging well and solid with this, but the clutch pedal itself isn't encountering any resistance and is light as a feather until you're 2" or 3" from the toe plate - all the action happens there. Press it onto the floor, clutch begins to engage when pedal is about an inch or two off the floor, at a out 3 to 4" it's fully engaged. It works, just don't like the way it feels, super soft and just no resistance at all.

Adjusting the clutch has been a non-stop battle with the car as it never seems to stay in a happy place for more than a month or two. What's left? Adjusting the pressure plate fingers? Changing the clutch altogether? This clutch has maybe 1,800 miles on it since 2000 when it was put in, but I know based on everything I saw when I got the car, the previous owner knew nothing about the car, bought it on a whim, and I'm sure he'd never driven a car like this before and likely never heard of double clutching.

Anything I can do to get a more "normal" feeling clutch? Don't really trust driving the car any longer distances like this, not to mention other little odds and ends. Thanks much and Happy Easter to all!

Do yourself a favor and get the Chrysler single-point distributor conversion kit - life is a whole lot easier with it and you can then get needed parts from the corner auto parts store. Pretty sure Merritt sells those and they're worth every nickel. Bought the plugs for my '29 off Amazon cheaper than anywhere else.

As for Kanter, I've had my '29 for two years now, I can't ever get them to even return a phone call. Good luck!