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Hi all,

I am about to embark on a clutch replacement on my 1104 Touring. It has served its purpose well. Having never done one, any tips or steps to be watching for? It certainly does not look enjoyable.

My shifter shifts perfectly and I have heard and owned cars that the shifter would slip out of reverse if it was removed incorrectly at one point in time. Any thoughts on that?

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Tom, I kept hoping someone with more recent experience would respond as the last time I did this on a 34 Eight was about 35 years ago and I don't remember it in step-by-step detail; but (1) it's VERY heavy, you'll want a transmission jack, and (2) no mysteries, it should be obvious how to remove it. I removed the clutch pedal actuating rod of course, and dropped both universal joints and removed the shaft which also was a great time to repack the universals. I removed all the front floorboards to make it easier to get at the bolts on the trans to engine, and removed the shift cane. Your rear motor mounts are on the trans so you'll have to jack up the engine to support it, and of course remove the speedo cable, the Bijur oil hose to the throwout bearing, and the wiring to the backup light switch at the trans rear. Easy, simple, but you'll absolutely want a muscular full-time helper. I've heard of folks who used an engine hoist and strap band thru the front door opeining to lift from above and relieve some of the weight; I did it without that but it might be worth considering.

Perhaps Tim Cole has more recently experience.

Thanks Dave for the great reference.

The last one I did was a 37 twelve. I filled a box with bolts and thought "I'm just getting started." Nothing makes you feel like you're working on the American Rolls-Royce as doing a post 9th series clutch job.

Anyway, Tom your comment about the pop out problem is very good. That probably comes from trying to use the shifter as the means of removal and installation. Very bad idea. I did some service on a 34 twelve with a reverse pop out problem and when I looked at the serial numbers everything matched except the trans which was from a Super 8. Also, I have found that the shifters don't always interchange very well even though they look the same. The cars do have some hand built precision in them.

I have done a number of clutch jobs and the trick is to never put force on the input shaft. With Senior Packards I made up a tool using a pipe across the frame using a chain and studs as a safety to suspend the trans. The pipe would rest on wood rails. That way there is no chance of the unit falling. From there a floor trans jack is wonderful to rent but not necessary.

The next issue is: what about the motor? The usual way is to support it with a floor jack and a piece of wood, but the authorized way is to use a special tool that supports the motor using the frame. If you make that tool up you can then do the clutch job on a free standing lift using a standard trans jack.

The next issue is the amount of space between the x-frame and the trans. Removing the output shaft yoke is a help. That is why the safety chain is so important because if you have to start lowering things to clear the frame the safety chain prevents damage. As I recall once you have the trans mounts off the unit will clear. Which is tough because the whole thing is stitched together.

Next there is the ultra important clutch pilot. If you happen to have a spare input shaft that is great, but you can make a suitable pilot out of wood or steel. Just take the pilot bearing and clutch disk to a machine shop. That is the most important special tool, otherwise you will be extending your vocabulary.

If you have an overhead gantry crane and a lift or motor pit the entire power pack can be lowered onto the floor, the clutch replaced and the unit reinstalled on both the eights and the twelves. With practice in an afternoon.

Hope this helps

Hello Folks,
I am glad I looked today, I have removed all floor boards, drive shaft in order to replace the throw out bearing in my 1102. The Bijir system was disonected for some reason and the throwout bearing never got any oil. As you may guess it makes a really ugly noice with no oil. As far as supporting the engine? where exactly do I do that? Is it neccessary to remove the pedal/clutch assembly? If my Bijur system is not connected how else can I ensure the throwout bearing gets oil once replace? Does anyone make a throwout bearing that self lubricating? What are some of the parts that should be replace since I really only want to this once.
Thank you for any help
Roberto

Sealed bearings for the throwout were readily available at least as of a few years ago and probably still are. But if the Bijur pump itself has been disconnected you have or will have further problems with the spring shackles, brake rods etc. going without lubrication and when the wear becomes excessive, the car will handle like a pig. New spring shackle bolts and bushings is not a inexpensive proposition. If you install a sealed throwout bearing, don't forgot to pinch off or block the Bijur oil line to it so that when you do restore the function of the Bijur you wont't be getting oil on the clutch.

Is it possible to replace the drip plugs with grease fittings? I was told some owners have done this.
Thanks Roberto

I know some folks have done that and then crawl under the car to grease it, but why not just repair the Bijur pump? Probably far simplier in the long run, plus you preserve some value of the vehicle.

You do have a point there.
I will focus on the throwout bearing/transmission removal first and then figure out the bijur system later. The two front lines are there however not hooked up.
Thank you for your help.
Roberto

For Roberto:

Grease fittings are a solution only if you install a fitting for each pivot point. The chassis is designed for oil not grease. Thus you can't just replace the Bijur fittings with grease fittings.

As for the motor support you can make it up using heavy plate steel and some ingenuity. It rests on the frame rails and uses a cross beam to support the motor. If you look in the later service manuals you will find refererence to such a tool. It's a project to make one which is why most of those clutch jobs are done on the floor. However, when using a drive on alignment rack type lift you can simply use the suspension jack under the motor and a regular trans jack.

Roberto: the usual mode of failure of the Bijur system is the vacuum diaphragm on the pump. These have been NLA for decades but there are folks who repair them. It's easy enough to check - just apply some vacuum with your mouth or a small vacuum pump and see the the diaphragm holds vacuum. If it does you can loosen the vacuum line to the pump and with the engine running, repetitively apply and release the vacuum until oil is seen emerging from the oil outlet fitting. There is also a manual priming method, you might want to read the Bijur manual available on this site. In addition to the felt filters in each drip plug there is one in the pump intake at the bottom of the jar - you might want to make sure it's clean. For Bijur oil you can use SAE50 motor oil or SAE 90 GL-1 gear oil.

One thing you might consider while the pump is out for repair is to remove the outlet oil line from the pump and attach a hand pressure oiler like the one pictured. If the lines are intact and the drip plugs are not clogged you'll eventually fill the lines and lubricate all the fittings. You can continue to do this regularly until the pump is repaired.

Apologies to Tom for going so far afield on his post.

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