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When I got my '39 Six, the glass clock face was broken. I was able to find one online and I sent them both to Smith's Classic Clocks and was able to get 'one good one' out of the two.
The 'mystery' question stems from the light on the back of the clock. Not to be confused with the internal illumination light that plugs into the hole in the top of the clock's back, which is wired to the light switch. I'm referencing the small one that is mounted on the back housing. It looks like it is meant as a 'map light'. Problem is, the light is wired together with the power feed for the clock. Both clocks were wired the same way and while both bulbs were good, neither of them came on when hooked up to power. AND, if they did, because the clock power is constant and not ignition-switched, the light would drain the battery. While neither light has current getting through to the bulb, both socket bodies have a distinctive rattle to them. Has anybody ever come up against this before?? Could these little light sockets have vertical/horizontal gravity switches in them in 1939?? Can they be taken apart and fixed? Or, are they available ANYWHERE?? I would dearly like to get this resolved and back to factory if possible. I cannot see how the sockets come apart - does anyone know the answer??

The small light in sort of a hood like holder on the back of the clock is for the glovebox. It is supposed to turn on when the door is open and throw a beam of light into the box.

I believe there is a sealed mercury switch which forms one end of the socket and located just behind the bulb. Most likely oxidation has insulated the contacts inside the glass envelope so it no longer works. The trunk light has the same arrangement although I am not sure the switches are physically the same.

A few have had luck removing the switch and giving it a vigorous shaking to "clean" the contacts but most do not and the switch is no longer functional. On a trunk an external tilt switch can be installed but there is no modern replacements that will directly fit the glovebox space that I am aware of.

Modern switches have gone to metal rolling balls to complete the connection due to the dangers of mercury. Mercury switches are available for some applications but the glass envelope is different and would require some sort of enclosure to be made for safety and to provide a secure mounting.

Here is a view of a trunk light showing the Packard mercury switch and the arrangement in the socket. It is held together by a pressed on cap at the end where the wire exits. That is shown next to the cardboard insulating tube on the top. Glove box is the same arrangement but maybe a different size. The trunk light cap came off fairly easily and perhaps a gentle grip and twist with pliers will remove the glove box cap too. I have not taken one apart to be sure.

The modern switch I was going to use for the trunk switch replacement is shown in the other photo but I found something better for that application. Not sure what to suggest on the glovebox as the modern mercury switches all look about the same -- long glass envelope with thin bare wires for the connection.

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Thank you Howard. I have always given Packard a lot of credit for innovative ideas and design, but I have to say, I am surprised this was available in '39. I notice in the picture of the disassembled switch, that the end cap has been separated from the socket body. Do you know if this is soldered or just pressed together? I tried heating one of my pair up with a micro-torch, and pulling it with a pair of pliers but couldn't get the cap to come off. Any idea how to remove it?? Chris.

I honestly don't know about the glovebox cap because I haven't taken one apart. The trunk cap was just pressed on and came off relatively easy with use of pliers and a twist as I pulled.

Looking at the 47 version it appears to be the same as the trunk. If the pliers don't work, since the hood and socket assy is riveted on the clock back plate, perhaps removing the clock plate and supporting it and the lamp assy in such a fashion no stress was applied to the rivets you could use a pin punch and a few gentle taps around the edge of the cap to persuade it off.

EDIT: If you get it off maybe post a photo with dimensions of the switch -- diameter and length. I think it might be possible to make a rolling ball switch that would fit in the space. If I can still find my old trunk switch I might give it a try. If it works then it should be able to be done in different sizes.

Guys,
For what it's worth, my 39 Six Borg clock had (and still has) a switch made up of a metal ball that rolls against the two light contacts. Delicate and not too reliable, even after I cleaned the whole think up and removed the corrosion.
Pat

Interesting. That would explain the rattle Chris heard. They used mercury on the later cars -- at least on the trunk -- so assumed glovebox was the same. Did the end cap press on and then come off with a pull and twist like I described for the trunk light? Was the ball and contacts steel or brass and do you remember the approx size of the ball?

There is a product one of my former co-workers told me about that he says lubes, cleans and protects electrical contacts better than ordinary contact cleaner. I haven't tried it yet but wonder if anyone here has. I am going to order a can from Amazon but if it works as advertised it might be a way to make the ball switches work better and last longer after a cleaning.corrosionx.com/electronics.html

Pat, can I ask you how you got the end cap off the socket body on your clock??? Is it soldered? My thought was to get it apart and 'fuse' the 'ball contacts' and then put a nice little inline rotary switch in the wire so it could be used.
Thanks for responding. Chris