Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Just can't stay away
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Here's a picture of what I'm dealing with. Thanks!
Posted on: 2014/3/23 20:29
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Home away from home
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hi; last year i rebuilt the engine in my 526 and was surprized that the damper was not one piece, but three piece with springs and friction surfaces. you might be able to remove it in pieces. my engine was out of the car when i put it back together. would suggest just removing all 12 mounting bolts and jacking engine up if it does not come apart. i removed my engine in pieces, taking the crankcase out the bottom. putting the complete engine back in was a six man job-not fun. i also replaced the felt seal with a modern seal, however damper needs a little machine work. dell
Posted on: 2014/3/24 9:40
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35-1200 touring sedan 42-110 convertible coupe 48-2293 station sedan |
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Forum Ambassador
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If it's a one-piece unit it's not a damper, just a hunk of iron. In order to suppress pulses which is the function of the damper, it has to have movement between the weight and the fixed (inner) core and this is purpose of the friction surfaces and springs. I think Dell's suggestion to diassemble it in place to see if you then can remove each section without lifting the engine is very worthy.
Posted on: 2014/3/24 9:50
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Just can't stay away
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Thanks for the ideas guys. As suggested, it appears to be an at least 3-piece unit, with two halves split down the center and a smaller center hub. With the two larger halves removed, the center hub does appear to have enough clearance to slide over the cross member. I considered dismantling it in place, but don't see any bolts or screws holding it together. I assumed it was pressed onto the hub, and that even if I got it apart using a puller (which I've been admonished not to use) or some such, I wouldn't be able to get it back together the same way.
Similar dampers I've seen from later model Packards have a row of flat-head screws around the perimeter on the front face or other hardware holding them together. I guess it's possible those screws have been obscured by putty and paint on mine. I'll have to hit it with a wire wheel and inspect it more closely this evening. Given the number of scenarios that could necessitate removal of this thing (timing chain inspection / replacement, accidentally pulling out the brass retainer when removing the generator and dropping the gear, oil leak mitigation, etc.), it would be nice to know it's possible without conducting a major procedure, so I'll be sure to post my findings for posterity.
Posted on: 2014/3/24 14:56
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Just can't stay away
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Hi Dell, do you remember where you got the modern shaft seal and perhaps have a part number? I was planning to use felt, but would love to instead replace it with something more modern and proven to boot. Thanks!
Posted on: 2014/3/24 14:59
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Home away from home
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i will be in my toy box on wed. and will try to remember to get the part number for u. as i remember the inner hub holds the parts together. dell u will need to take a little off the hub
Posted on: 2014/3/24 19:55
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35-1200 touring sedan 42-110 convertible coupe 48-2293 station sedan |
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Just can't stay away
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Update: Based on feedback from others here and on different forums, I did decide to try separating the damper in place. I created a rudimentary puller by welding a 7/16 nut to a piece of 3/16 strap and clamped it to the front of the damper. The puller worked as planned, but to no avail. Either the sections of my damper are hopelessly oxidized together, or it doesn't dismantle the way I'd surmised. All I accomplished via this process was the destruction of two perfectly good c-clamps. Those are easily replaceable though, and the damper isn't, so no real harm done.
Of the two possible remaining options, raising the engine or removing the front cross member, I thought perhaps the cross member removal may in fact be easiest in terms of disruption to other systems and work involved. As a first step, I removed the driver's side horizontal sheet metal cowling that obscures the frame rail and to which the hood clamp is affixed. Unfortunately, I now see that the cross member is riveted to the longitudinal frame rails. The only remaining option seems to be raising / removing the engine. Unfortunately, I don't believe there's adequate clearance from the firewall to accommodate simply raising the front of the engine, as it needs to come up at least 2 inches. Even removing all 12 bolts and jacking the entire motor seems problematic, as I think such an approach would be likely to damage the two sheet metal cowlings bolted to the oil pan on either side of engine, among other things (manifolds, linkages, etc.). Therefore, I think it's time I accept that I will likely need to completely disconnect and remove the motor outright. I suppose I'll get to it. Damn...
Posted on: 2014/3/26 22:14
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Forum Ambassador
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Aren't there a set of 6 or 8 large flathead screws hold the 2 faces together? I don't see them on the front unless they are covered with paint - how about on the backside?
Posted on: 2014/3/27 8:39
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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Just can't stay away
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You'd think so, right? Nothing. No discernible hardware whatsoever. There hub has a larger flange on the rear, and I assume the way it's held together is that the drive pulley sandwiches it between that flange. If that were true, however, my puller should have worked. Hmmm...
Posted on: 2014/3/27 9:27
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