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In my 1940 1808 over the years have had the clutch pedal shaft rub just slightly against the fire wall. See photo if it came through. Just in the one section and just enough to make a squeak each time I push in or let up on the clutch. Any way to adjust or fix without pulling everything out from under the car?

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Pretty sure your clutch/brake shaft is worn to the point that the pedal is wobbling and rubbing against the floor plate. You could remove the plate and cut a bigger hole for the pedal, but I think your Packard deserves better. Its not a big job to fix. Howard posted a fix not too long ago using a 7/8" round bar and some basic machine work. I'll try and find the post unless Howard beats me to it.
Mark

Thank you. Can't remember for sure, so many years ago, but there was some sort of wobble bearing and was worn on one half, so when I reinstalled turned it around to the unworn side. That might have moved the position slightly.

Thanks mark, just putting this post back on top, so that someone might lead me to the post about replacing the shaft for the clutch pedal.Thanks

I did a shaft replacement on my 47 because the oversize repair kit that was made by one of the regions is no longer available. Don't know if the 40 pedals are the same or how the mount differs and if you would be able to use the same approach.

In my case, the bushings in the pedal were OK but the shaft had severely worn and was causing the slop. I replaced the Packard shaft with a precision 7/8 diameter shaft available from McMaster-Carr. It was cut exactly to length and one end shaped to fit the "D" shaped opening in the frame. Don't have any photos of just the reworked shaft. The frame end is fixed with a clip behind the frame and not seen in the photo. The other end fits in a removable bracket. If your bushings are the worn item then doubt if my shaft only approach would work without changing those.

I didn't have the facilities to drill the shaft for the grease passage like the original. I also believe the grease was all being applied to the brake pedal and wasn't getting down the shaft where it was needed on the clutch pedal. Think that had caused the problem so elected to drill the pedals for separate zerk fittings. Those were placed so they would open between the bushings and grease would be applied to the shaft and bushings exactly where needed. They are both accessible with a grease gun from the bottom.

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I'm not sure that these are the clutch and brake pedal bearings, but they came out at the base of the pedals and were pretty chewed up from lack of lubrication. This is an old photo I took when I got the new replacements back, machined for $75 each.

Now I hand the lubrication chart to the Luber and ask, "Did you hit all the fittings?"

"Yes, sir, every one."

"Did you do the one for the pedals?"

"The one for the pedals? No, not yet."

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Thanks HH, that looks like it. Thanks Joe, cannot remember if those bushings are from the part that goes between the bell housing and frame, or the one HH is talking about. When I disassemble is it ok to leave the master brake cylinder shaft dangling? Can't remember how it connects to the cylinder under the rubber boot. Was told that Ron Carpenter makes replacements. Might the round openings at the base of each pedal need to be machined and or re sleeved?

The 47 master has a fairly deep pocket in the piston. Rod adjustment end just sits in the pocket. The only thing that holds rod is the portion of rod inside pocket and connection to pedal plus the rubber boot.

If yours is the same, once you disconnect the rod from pedal you should be able to slide the boot off master end and rod with boot will come out in one piece. It would probably hang OK but on mine it kind of got in the way when working with the shaft.

On my pedals, the round opening had a bronze bushing on each side with about 1/8-3/16 space between them. That space is where I put the zerk opening so grease would fill the space and ooze out onto the bushings. My bushings had minimal wear so felt they were serviceable. Bushing OD didn't look that easy a size to find at retail so if like the 47 it might have to be a machine shop to make something standard fit.

Hello folks, if I may add, I have a 120, and have the same issue with the pivot pin being worn. I will dig out the photos of the 120 assy. and then make some comparisons. I do know that the brake and clutch pedals have different configurations. One has bushings and the other has bearings. I will also look into the 1940 parts book and see what it says.It says that the bracket, Clutch & Brake pedal shaft is 333449 for 1800-01=1A-3-3A-4-5-6-7-8-, with 4 ea 38-24x7/8 HH, with nuts & Lock washers. Also that the bearing, Clutch Pedal is # 232276, 2 ea. Can't find the brake info yet.

Fred D

Thanks, I do know on my 40 Super the clutch and brake shafts are on the same side of the frame, that is one difference from the 47 of HH. But, otherwise the set up is probably close to being the same. If I can get this correct I can have all spare parts already on hand, to try to make this a one day repair. Famous last words.