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On my 33 super eight does it make a difference which coil fires number one cylinder? Thanks

Dell, my '34 has the same system and I've been maintaining the car for 50 years so I do know that rather unusual Northeast system well. Yes, absolutely it does make a difference! I don't think you should give the idea of changing the coils to fire the alternate set of cylinders any consideration at all, there is no benefit!!

Technically I suppose it's possible; you'd have to swap the primary leads between the two coils, swap the high tension leads from the center rotor brush to the end brush and visa versa - then the coil which formerly fired 1,2,7 & 8 would now fire 3,4,5 & 6. But in the end I think you'd be thwarted by not being able to find a correct distributor position to time the engine. The degree of movement of the distributor body within the base is very limited, and the distributor engagement to the drive shaft from the oil pump only will mount one way, though the shaft itself can be repositioned 4 ways. Remember, the plug wires in the cap are not in the firing order as the rotor fires first at one end of the rotor, then the other rotor end on the opposite side of the cap, then back to the other side with the other rotor end, etc. Though the engine firing order is the very conventional 1,6,2,5,8,3,7 &4, the wire positions around the cap are 1,3,2,4,8,6,7 &5. Perhaps reengaging the distributor drive shaft 180? might do it, or walking wires around the cap, but why on earth would anyone want to?

If I misunderstood your question and you just want to set it up correctly from scratch, the correct distributor position is with the grease cup and notch in the cap facing the manifold side of the engine. The front coil primary wire goes to the set of points nearest the front of the engine - the fixed set; the rear coil primary goes to the moveable set. The rotor of course only fits one way. IIRC correctly the front coil high tension lead goes to the rotor center brush and the rear coil to the side brush - I can also check this if important to you. If you've turned the engine over since the distributor was removed but haven't changed the position of the shaft in the oil pump it won't matter as the distributor will only engage the drive shaft in one position. If the distributor drive shaft has been removed and reinstalled, you'll have to go back to basics and reestablish the correlation between the rotor tip and #1 plug wire with #1 cylinder at TDC on compression; you could use trial and error, only 4 positions possible as long as the oil pump hasn't been in and out.

Thanks Dave; I am trying to correct a rough ideal problem. At this time I am making up new plug wires and was not sure if the coil would make a difference,It would seam that it should work with either coil as primary. But will make sure front coil is on center stud. Dell

Have you either synchronized the two sets of points first, or timed both #1 and #6 cylinders separately? Lack of synchronization will result in a poor idle, though there are other possibilities as well. Have you measured the manifold vacuum

If you don't mind the wires being hooked up backwards then it doesn't matter. However, if you are trying to determine the cause of rough idle in those cars the ignition is not the place to start.

First divide the systems by blocking off the main vacuum line at the intake manifold with piece of card stock cut to fit. This shuts off the wipers, lubricator, and power brake system. If the misfiring is reduced then you have exogeneous vacuum leaks to fix.

If your car is a later 10th series it will have an anti-flood line with a ball check valve. If this is leaking it will cause misfires. As well, the manifold and that choke stove can have leaks. These can be checked using propane or a solvent. If feeding propane around the manifold causes idle quality changes suspect a vacuum leak.

You can check the ignition timing with a light, but I would first check the spark with an adjustable tester from NAPA. It should be at least 20Kv. If the dwell is or ignition timing is not steady then there is slop in the distributor that needs to be fixed.

As well, with the motor running lightly shake that armored cable for the coils. If idle quality changes there is a short.

A compression test should be done as well in case compression is uneven.

Finally those Stromeberg gas dumpers can have all sorts of problems like dirty main jet air bleeds that require experienced personnel.

I used to use a worksheet for these problem cars and record the results of all this testing.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Guys; I set the distributer up on my distributer machine so I know the points are sinked and timing is the same on 1 and 6. I have 20 inches of vacuum at the carb base and between 140 and 145 on all cylinders. After I get the plug wires on and still have a problem will block off the vacuum and see if that changes any thing. It has got to be some simple thing that I have missed - it always is. Dell

Hi Dell: Nice have that good vacuum and such even compression but a couple of questions though probably not related to your poor idle:

1. Compression, is your gauge perhaps inaccurate or have you made very major engine modifications, I ask as the factory specification for compression is 95-100 psi, presumeably at sea level and of course less at higher altitudes. Hard to believe you could mill enough from the head to get 140 psi and still have clearance for the valves.

2. I don't recall any place to take a vacuum reading from the base of the carburetor or on the intake manifold - how did you measure "at the carb base"? To set my idle mixtures or just check vacuum I use a take-off where the main vacuum line on the firewall branches to the power brake valve and Bijur - there is a removeable plug there into which you can screw an adapter for a rubber hose on your gauge.

It is just a rough idle and the engine otherwise performs well, or are there more symptoms?

Hi Dave; The original head had so many cracks it looked like a road map, it had been welded at some point and then cracked again. I replaced it with a reproduction AL high compression head. I undertook a 100 mile road trip and it ran great, very strong. I have a EE-2 carb which has a 1/4 inch pipe plug on the firewall side of the base. Will let you know how things run with the new plug wires. Dell

Dell, don't make the same mistake I made with the spark plug wires! I didn't follow the factory length dimensions of the wires - thought I knew better. I made them nice and short to just fit neatly and thus I can't remove the distributor cap without first removing all the plug wires. If you want the factory dimensions I believe I have them scanned somewhere, it may be the other half of this print. Also if you're interested in authenticity, the high tension cables should be lacquered cloth-covered in silver-gray, not black.

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There should be two rubber doughnuts on the plug wires to keep them from flopping around.

Those cars are notorious for small vacuum leaks in the power brake system, leaking Bijur pump diaphrams, and cracked wiper hoses under the cowl. What you get are random misfires. A vacuum gauge will not detect them. What happens is the lean mixture affects a couple of cylinders.

The 4.0L Ford does the same thing. Manifold vacuum is great, but the idle quality sucks, the fuel trim is sky high, the idle speed is high, and the check engine light is on for a lean code. You can't diagnose it with other than the TSB from Ford that says to replace the lower manifold O-rings.