Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I have a 1936 120 coupe, totally restored, currently running all stock, show condition components. We don't use the car because it does not have AC. I could blame this on my wife, but it is hot in summer. I have had this 120 long enough, 30 years, to have grown tired of impressing my car friends with authenticity.

Yes i know about vintage air and others companys, but i havent looked in about 10 years, maybe longer.


I am thinking 12 volt conversion would be the first step, put generator aside, install alternator. 120 has new wiring complete.


So, any help from anyone doing this 12v on a 120?

alternator
battery
starter
coil
ignition?
gas tank gage
heater fan
clock
bulbs


Thanks
Craig

I am looking at the responses of this forum and the forum looks a little sleepy.
Is there a more active forum, dealing with 1936 120 Packards, I should be aware of?
Thanks

Your dedicated Packard forum choices are PACpackardclub.org/forum/ AACAforums.aaca.org/forum/29-packard/ and this forum. In my opinion this one is by far the most active but as summer vacation and meet time is upon us it has slowed a little. You might be able to pick up some pertinent but not Packard specific info on some of the street and rod forums.

I don't recall too many that have posted about adding AC to a prewar model so there is not much "how I did it" info. There are few photos posted and I don't think you will find two exactly alike. I believe one issue you will need to address is how to belt drive the compressor. Nothing bolt on is available that I am aware of so you will be into some fabrication and ingenuity since there is no provision or much space for extra pulleys etc. Ross posted some photos of an easy to make compressor bracket where he has driven the Sanden compressor via a long belt around existing pulleys on postwar 288/327 blocks. I don't know if there is any engine and belt differences that would make it hard to adapt the bracket to your early engine.

The list you made for the 12v conversion is a good one but that is another thing not too many have done on prewars. Many have done it on postwars and the requirements are the same. Several threads are on the forum if you want to do a search. The starter solenoid will change but many have kept the starter at 6v. In my opinion that is an invitation to trouble as several have wound up with cracked starter castings because of the added torque and speed at 12v so I would recommend it also be converted. Don't forget the radio if you have one. The gas gauge can be taken care of with a Runtz regulator. Other than the coil and the need for an added ballast resistor, the rest of ign can stay as is. Fifth Avenue Garage has a booklet on 12v conversion requirements you can order as well as carry a few of the needed components.fifthaveinternetgarage.com

First, This IS the most active Packard forum in the interplanetary Packard universe.
Second, yes, most likely adding Vintage Air will require converting to 12V. It is a fact that you CAN operate a compressor clutch on 6V, but there is not much in 6V fan plenums. Also updating to 12V will allow you to add a proper auxiliary cooling fan, and maybe even a couple more modern conveniences. There have been plenty of discussions dealing with 12V conversions on this site, as well as many other vintage car sites, that is to say its not a Packard specific transition.
Furthermore, No, to my knowledge pre-war A/C conversions on otherwise stock cars are few and far between, but they are out there. Locally I know of a 37-120 running Vintage Air and 12V. That owner is not on this forum, but I could put you in touch with him, though he did not do the installation, nor is he mechanically inclined.
As to your installation, I strongly suspect the key will be where and how to mount the compressor. You will have to custom fab the mounting, obviously. I have a plate for a 41-120 compressor and I may have a double groove pulley, I will check.
You may also want to consider a pressurized radiator, and a custom fan shroud...just speculating here...but my personal 998 experience would suggest the cooling system would thank you.

Wasn't it James Hollingsworth Packard that ran a 12 volt battery in the trunk for AC, and charged it up when he was home on a battery charger. I don't know how he did the compressor but it took care of the conversion to 12 volt.

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I believe the AC installation was on his '40 160 Touring Sedan. He had a small 12-volt battery in the trunk and a modern Saden compressor. I don't recall the belt drive for the compressor. JWL

Wasn't it James Hollingsworth Packard that ran a 12 volt battery in the trunk for AC

Was his entire AC on 12v or did the blower have 6v and the compressor clutch was running off the 12v battery? I have read of at least one unit splitting the voltage because the original 6v compressor or clutch had died and doing the trunk battery for the Sanden compressor replacement was the best option but don't know if the Hollingsworth car was it. There is a car in AZ that has a 12v battery only for AC with it's own alternator driven off the second groove of the compressor pulley to keep charged. The dual voltage scenario is what I am contemplating now on mine by using the early 50s Mopar generator and a small alternator on the end in place of the PS pump.

On high speed the average AC blower will pull 10-15 amps and some can go higher so battery drain could be an issue for long trips (or short ones over several days if there is no aux charging between uses). I would suggest using a deep cycle battery if going the approach of running the entire AC off the battery and charging it afterward.

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Howard, don't recall for sure, but I was under the impression that since he was using the Saden compressor the 12-volt battery in the trunk was for the whole system. Someone who attends the Texas Packard Meet bought the car from his estate and if here can better answer your question

Another of Jim's air conditioned Packards, the 41 Clipper sedan, is said to have used a 6-volt system to operate the compressor clutch. As I recall it took 7.3 volts to engage and hold the clutch. This would be at the max of the system output. JWL