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Howdy Folks - I"m getting ready to start a 31 Standard 8 for the first time in 30 years, and I'd like to pull the distributor out to do a single points conversion. I wanted to find out if there is any special guidance before doing so. I've got cylinder 1 at TDC, and I've got the rotor pointed to the number 1 plug wire. To remove, do I just need to remove/loosen the distributor clamp? Also, I notice the rotor sits on the shaft and is noticeably loose. This perplexes me, as it seems the rotor would jump all over the place during operation. Should it be like that, or should it be on there tight? Anyone know if Northeast made two different size rotors and I happen to have the larger size? I don't know the model number of the distributor as the tag was replaced. Lastly what is the large chrome adjustment knob do - is that for micro timing adjustments?

Only one rotor (5020491) and yes, it must be a snug fit. Both the Standard and DeLuxe used the same distributor (5010896), the same internal parts, and same timing. Set the manual control to fully advanced before you set the timing (29/32" BTDC at the flywheel rim).

Over the years I have noticed that many NE distributors have loose rotors on them.
The easy way to fix that is with a piece of paper about 3/8 wide placed across the top of the rotor and then press the rotor down over the paper, trim the ends and you should be good.
I have on ocassion had to double the paper to get a snug fit.

John

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Regarding the "large chrome adjustment knob" I believe you are referring to the grease cup that supplies grease to the distributor bearing. See the 1930-31 Service Parts list, page 21 and the 1931 Packard Eight Owner's Manual, page 31 for more information. Both publications are available for viewing/download in the Packard Literature and Manuals section of this website.

Gents -- Thanks very much for the input and suggestions. Stay healthy!

Many thanks to all; Last weekend I pulled the distributor, converted to a single point conversion system, lubed/greased everything, cleaned all the rotor and distributor contacts, got the rotor snug, checked the advance mechanism, set point gap, then got the timing down just right at least according to the factory manual. While at it, I cleaned all the old dry grease off the starter bendix and re-greased. Saw the solder failed on one of the joints of the oil filter return line, so I pulled off and re-soldered.