Re: 1937 120 rear armrest question
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Home away from home
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The attachment was a brass top hat.type of retainer pushed into the body with large head (ring shank style) nails . I used the plastic Christmas tree style to reinstall my assembly. 1 1/2 “ to allow alignment during installation..
If you’re remaking the sections due to pull out of the holes or cracks just buy some JB weld and putty the damaged pieces and redill the holes.
Posted on: 2023/4/5 11:32
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Larry Reber
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Re: 1937 120 rear armrest question
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Home away from home
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My 1964 Ghia Imperial, being a coachbuilt car, had a number of aluminum upholstery panels but it was a big mistake as all the places where they touched steel had corroded into large holes due to the electrolysis between the dissimilar metals when a little moisture, such as humidity, was added. I’m not saying to not do it but just be aware of that and maybe using some grease between contact points would help.
I’m sure that electrolysis isn’t the proper term but it should get the point across.
Posted on: 2023/4/5 11:39
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Re: 1937 120 rear armrest question
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Quite a regular
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Thanks for the reply. We will use the same kind of fastener as well
Posted on: 2023/4/5 12:09
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Re: 1937 120 rear armrest question
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Quite a regular
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Yeah we thought about that and we will paint the armrest where it will touch and use plastic washers as well
Posted on: 2023/4/5 12:13
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Re: 1937 120 rear armrest question
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Quote:
Wonder if any paint -- even a strong epoxy -- would eventually wear thru. Por 15 is hard and might be an option but even if securely screwed to the panel, the continued pulling or even road vibration would probably wear a spot and start the process. In addition to the paint, plastic washers or other isolation methods you mentioned what about also using a thin piece of adhesive backed insulating mylar sheet or some other kind of polyester film between the aluminum and steel. That material is extremely tough and not very likely to wear thru.
Posted on: 2023/4/5 12:38
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Howard
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