Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I am going to pull the engine and transmission on a 1949. I am concerned with the length of the engine/transmission/overdrive length and weight being an issue with the cherry picker. Has anyone done this?

A friend and I did the install process on a 47 Custom but removal would be almost the same sequence in reverse. Used a cherry picker and also had one of those screw type load balancers where I could crank the lead screw and move the center of gravity. Straps underneath the engine -- at the rear came up just in front of bellhousing. In front the 356 engine has stabilizer brackets on each side of the block a couple of inches behind the front edge so I used a bolt on each side to keep the strap from sliding. IIRC, with trans and OD, the center point to have the engine fairly level was roughly around #6 cylinder.

To install we raised the engine more or less level until it was above the front cross member, slid it in and cranked the leveler more or less at the same time so the rear tipped down to slide it into position. It was a slide then tilt then slide kind of operation and when it was far enough back a tilt then lower until all was more or less level and ready for rear crossmember and to be set front mount down in final position.

Just remove the transmission first.

Since u are asking then that implies that u probably don't like to crawl around under a car. THAT is strictly psychological.

It is a lot easier to put the car up on jack stands, remove trans, let the car down off of the jack stands and then remove the engine.

The engine can be supported with a bar or rod across the back side of engine and across the frame.

REmove trans first, then engine is standard procedure for all rear wheel, front engine cars and lite trucks. All of the heavy engine mechanics i ever knew that removed engines DAILY for DECADES removed trans or simply disconnect transs in case of Automatics aand then removed engine.

I don't know about the weight of the overdrive. But a standard 3 speed trans can be eaasily removed by laying on ones back with trans directly over chest. REach up, grab trans and slide it back and down. The car will have to be at least 18" raaised in the air which is about the limit of most jack stands.

Automatics can be removed on a standard mecchanics floor jack.

THe 3 speed Packard trans probably only weighs about 150 pounds, typicaaal of the 3 speeds of that era. Just man handdle it.

BTW, unless there is something most peculiar about the 48 or 49 Packard that i am not aware of ( i have a 48 setting out here) then the procedure of removing the trans is typicaal of nearly ALL cars and lite trucks that are front enginee/rear wheel drive. Even for 3rd member chassis designs.

OR, what advaaantage is there to pulling engine and trans as one unit???

Published weights varied just a small amount over the years but for 1953 a 327 is given as 885 lbs. with clutch and standard transmission, 920 lbs. with the above and overdrive added. The same combinations for the 288 engine are about 20 lbs. less.

I used a number of setups. If the hoist is high enough pulling the trans with the motor is preferable. Especially for assembly to ensure proper clutch alignment. However, the whole project will go a lot smoother if you pull the nose. You can do that using the hoist. Lift it up and roll it forward. It helps to have the wheels off to clear the fenders. I used to do that single handedly.

On cars with three point motor mounts the powertrain can be dropped through the bottom of the car as a unit into a pit.

An overhead gantry crane will achieve the same result as will a forklift.

One word of caution on using cherry pickers. Controling the DOWNWARD release can be very tedious. Open the valve just little too much and the load will drop REAL FAST or too far. There mite be good quality expensive cherry pickers with finer tuned release valve. But i've never seen one.

I really don't like cherry pickers. I have one but only use it for rather crude load lifting. A Ford differential hoist or chain fall is preferred. Raising and lowering of the load can be much better controled. For loads up to 750 pounds a common 2X6 ceiling rafter will work just fine IF IT IS DOUBLED and a 2x4 support placed near the car. Say a 12 foot span of the beam or less.

The chain falls come in a variety. And prefer the double pulley Ford differential hoist type. i think there are 1 ton and 1/2 ton versions. I have one of both and much prefer those for any precision load lifting/lowering.

I've lifted plenty of AMC and chevy 6cylinder and 8cylinders on a doubled 2X6 cceiling rafter with centre support. As well SBC's and 700 pound motorcycles using a chain fall. But i really can't say i've ever tried anything over 800 pounds on a doubled ceiling rafter.

I have the car up on an engine hoist so getting under the car is not the issue. Psychologically...I was the one who installed the lift and this is in Hollister (known as the "Earthquake Capital of the World" so there is some concern.

>HH56 says:

>Used a cherry picker and also had one of those screw type load balancers

I bought a load balancer at Harbor Freight. I hope it will tilt the engine down low enough.


>Straps underneath the engine --

Can you please let me know what straps you used?



>IIRC, with trans and OD, the center point to have the engine fairly level was roughly around #6 cylinder.

Where did you bolt the chain straps to (cylinder head bolt, manifold bolt)?


>Tim Cole says>

However, the whole project will go a lot smoother if you pull the nose. You can do that using the hoist. Lift it up and roll it forward. It helps to have the wheels off to clear the fenders. I used to do that single handedly.

What do you mean by "Pulling the nose"? Are you saying removing the whole front sheet metal (fenders, bumper, and grille)?

>On cars with three point motor mounts the powertrain can be dropped through the bottom of the car as a unit into a pit.

IS the 1948 Packard a car where this can happen???

Cherry pickers are not ideal for such a large engine and weight but if you don't have an A frame or an area tall enough for one and the car is on jackstands so not rolling there are not a lot of other options. I guess I am fortunate in that mine has a decent control so it can inch the weight down. It has managed 6 engine removal and replacements in the last 30 years but always with two people doing the work.

I surely would not use any kind of rafter setup unless I knew exactly how it was supported and what condition the wood was in and then I'd still think twice. Too many stories of grief with that setup.