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Now that the engine has run for an accumulative hour I think it is time to do a hot valve adjustment.

Can anybody please provide some tios, suggestions, and techniques on doing this procedure?

THANKS

First consideration is whether you want to attempt to do it with a hot engine running at idle. Probably gives the best results but can be challenging and you're probably going to wish you had a 3rd hand. Alternatively, get the engine hot, shut it off, and do those valves where the cam lobe is down, then rotate the engine as needed to the next set where the cam lobe is down. There are charts available for most engines to indicate which valves you can do before further rotating the cam to a subsequent positioning.

For access, of course remove the front right wheel and the inner fender access panel.

It's more important that the valve clearances not be too tight and be adjusted to provide the smoothest running. For example, if a compression test shows uneven values the lash can be compensated to even out the readings. For lower cylinders first ensure the valve clearance is not too small and tighten slightly to increase lift. For cylinders that are higher than the average clearances can be increased slightly.

So you can start with .001 more clearance than the manual and go to .007, .010 for the low cylinders and .009, .012 for the high cylinders. After that you can put a .001 feeler into any of the wider clearances to check for noise and correct that if it exists by closing the clearance.

Interesting info Tim.

Does anyone have the chart that Owen describes? It bet it is based on firing order.

I recall using O_D's suggested method years ago. Seems like it only took 4 turns of the engine to get all the valves. The trick is keeping track of the valves that have been adjusted.

(o{}o)

You should be able to do it in two turns.

Pull the plugs, tighten the fan belt, and put #1 at TDC. Then go past a little - like 10 degrees. That should put the cam profile in a good position

Do those valves. Turn the fan one quarter turn and do cylinder 6. Turn the fan one quarter turn and do cylinder 2. Just follow the firing order - 1 6 2 5 8 3 7 4 - as a cylinder is firing every 45 degrees.

If the motor is too tight to easily turn over with the fan then us a remote starter switch which you can buy at the auto store. In reality you can also do it in pairs of two (1,6) (2,5) (8,3) (7,4) because those pairs are on the compression stroke. There you are working in half turns. Set 1 and 6 with 1 at TDC, turn 1/2 turn and do 2 and 5 with 2 at TDC.

What the OP may not realize is that for the particular lifter being adjusted, the cam lobe does NOT have to be pointing directly downwards (i.e. it need not be 180? from the high point of the lift), it can be at any position that has not yet initiated movement of the cam follower - that is why you can do several valves at one time without having to move the cam.

See this post for detailed instructions on valve adjustment:

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... orum=1&post_id=79049#forumpost79049

Wow...the Peter Toet valve adjusting procedure looks really good!!!

For solid lifter cams the tappet lash should be set warm at .007 Inlet and .010 Exhaust. With respect to the exhaust, Peter advocates one thousands extra clearance for the exhaust to assist in exhaust valve cooling so therefore it should actually be set to .011.

THANKS AGAIN...you guys have bee SUPER HELPFUL!!!