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I am in the process of resurrecting a 1950 288 w/OD. Prior to installation, Id like to replace the clutch/pressure plate and due to clearance (non-stock), I'd like to upgrade to a hydraulic throw-out bearing.

It has a 10" clutch and the pressure plate has the '3 fingers' for the throw-out bearing to ride on.

I understand there are pressure plates that have a diaphragm movement rather than the 3-finger movement. Apparently, to make this work, I need the diaphragm variety.

Does anyone have any numbers and sources.

Thanks for any ideas. I'm not trying to make a hot rod, just a distinctive ride. Where better to start than Packard.

Ed...

Hey Ed compared to a lot of other cars I've driven my 50 Packard clutch already has a very light feel to it, not sure why you want to go through the aggravation of trying to convert it to hydraulic. Unless you're going to put 20K miles a year on it the original clutch would not need any more adjusting than a hydraulic clutch.

I agree. If your pedal is heavy, it would be far easier to find the reason and fix it rather than re-engineering it.

It seems we're missing the reason for the question. Not that I've got an answer, but reading the original question, the desire for a hydraulic clutch has nothing to do with pedal pressure or effort, rather it's a clearance or spatial issue that's creating the desire for hydraulics.

The diaphragm type clutch cover (pressure plate) is the Borg & Beck type. These covers should be easily obtained from a good auto parts store. These covers have a different bolt pattern than the Long - three finger type - covers. To use a B&B cover to replace a Long will require drilling the flywheel for the B&B bolt pattern unless the flywheel has been drilled for both types.

Packard used an over-center boost spring to reduce pedal pressure. Perhaps the linkage and/or spring are worn and/or need lubricating. The boost spring design worked well and made pedal operation easier than those without.

Recommend staying with the original type.

Thanks for all the feedback and discussion, everyone. I appreciate it.

Yes, I'm installing this package in a narrow frame with insufficient space for the clutch linkage... I know, poor planning. Its like how many ways are there to shoot yourself in the foot? No matter the number you think, the answer is 'MORE'. I thinking I'm checking out most of them...

I'm building an open roadster, kind of a T Bucket kind of a thing. Except, want it more comfortable than any I've seen, longer and a little wider, incorporate some of the old hot rod ideas, cowl steering, Duvall windshield, wide 5 wheels, etc.

Its like, when you go to a car show, you can't have more power, shinier paint, more chrome, or make more noise. Most, don't recognize the craftsmanship that goes into any of these rides, especially those that are a real restoration. You've got to have something distinct without being weird. So this little ride will be that, not a hot rod, maybe a cool rod. Should scoot along well, be fun and interesting, and not too expensive... If you don't consider the time it has taken to build it.

OK, so now, maybe I can contribute something to this group of Packard experts, if anyone is interested. I've explained my need for the Hydraulic Throw Out Bearing. I have found at least one source for that piece. McCloud sells a bearing for it. I haven't installed peddles or hydraulic fluid, but if it works as sold, it will work right out of the box.

I think Tilton also sells one that will work, but opted for the McCloud product. Both will work with the stock 3 fingered Pressure Plate.

Thanks for listening to my rambling, and again, all of the feedback.

Rusty

Rusty, did not realize you were building a modified open roadster. I have some hot rod friends and the reports on hydraulic throw out bearings are mixed. Those who have had problems with them went to an external cylinder to activate the clutch and found this to be a more desirable way to go. Please share more of your project with us. There is even a special modified section here for such work. John

Wow! Thanks for the interest.

This was supposed to be a quick inexpensive project until I started and commented 'ya, since I'm doing this, I might as well...'. You know you've lost control when those words escape.

I had been working on a 34 chev Pu, fit the doors and could actually get inside, when I recognized I would never be comfortable in it. Not enough distance between firewall and back of cab, even with a seat having no padding in back. Bummer. Legit set for months before deciding I want the truck, but need to lengthen the cab. Really gonna have to up my game with a welder to take that on.

I had the rear shell/bucket of a 24 Overland, Cowl for a Model T, a frame laying out back, had recently picked up a running 1950 Packard engine and OD trans. How much could it take? Ignorance is bliss, explains my smile. I'd never done anything like that before. But building an open roadster body would result in some experience with bodywork.

I started with the body, extending the lower edge of the bucket and building a framework on the inside. I propped up the T cowl and decided there would not be enough room fo a trans and peddles. I had a 34 chev Pu cowl, way to big and wrong taper in the quarters to match the bucket. My venture into bodywork began... had to narrow it, shorten it and change the taper, then fabricate the splice between the chev and overland parts. As I said, ignorance is bliss. Finally wrapped that up to some extent and moved into storage and started on the frame.

In the meantime I picked up a trailer load of parts, front/rear axles and suspension, flathead V8, trans, radiator, two complete sets of tires n wheels, one set of wires and one set of wide 5's, all for 37 ford. The brakes had been upgraded to 1940, hydraulic brakes. Sold off the V8, trans, radiator, wire wheels n tires. Totally paid off the purchase and still had the axles, suspension, and wide 5 wheels and other bits n pieces.

The frame was an early T truck frame, straight rails. Z'ed the frame, front n rear. Actually, lots more time figuring what, how much, where, how, to make changes. I don't remember if I had mentioned, I've never done any of this before. Spending as much on tools as car parts. A part of Z'ing the frame was to fabricate the cross bracing to work with the axles n suspension, and get the right stance, estimating how much the suspension will settled with that engine n trans in place. Then boxed the frame and bolted the axles n suspension in place. Alright, progress,

I set the engine on the frame, checking for stance and fit. Looking good, Fabricate mounts. What's with the front mount on that engine? Never seen such a thing, but it must work! Tried to remove the engine with mounts... back to the drawing board... got that sorted out, over time.

Ultimately, just a couple of weeks ago, I was able to put the body on the frame, with the engine and added the radiator shell, '27 whippet. Looks great, No, wait, too much sticking out the back.

Brings us to where I am now, just beginning to put the frame back together.

Wow, 18 months of labor condensed to one rambling, meandering story. Hope not to boring, but still smiling, remember, ignorance is bliss.

Hope this isn't too long. Thanks again for the interest.

Ed

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I am aware of a few Packard S-8 powered hot rods. Yours looks to be the most interesting, especially the body shape.