Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hi,
If you have followed some of my other posts, you know that I pulled the engine (and front clip) on my '55 Patrician a few months ago. While awaiting some work to be done on it, I am taking the opportunity to really clean up the engine compartment and I have great access to the front suspension and steering components.
I bought a bunch of new tie rod ends, bushings, king pin set, etc from Max Merritt and am starting to replace them along with pondering how far to go with the power steering control valve, cylinder etc (as Kanter, Max want a LOT for rebuilt ones...).

Since I removed the engine and front clip already and I didnt use/have the suspension tool or a chain to hold it all together (didnt read that far ahead) the chassis is 'relaxed' and the parts I want to replace are under stress.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how I can recompress the suspension so I can remove upper/lower/inner/outer bushings etc?? (besides putting the engine back in...)


thx
Bob

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All you need is two good stout pieces of 1/2" allthread some nuts and large flatwashers. Put it through where the shocks were and tighten it up till the upper control arm lifts off of its rebound bumper. You can now do everything except the lower inner bushings which often don't need replacing anyway.

Ross didn't mention any lube but when I did some similar work I found the nut on a well greased rod was much easier to tighten down. I used grease but since the load on the nut is considerable I don't know if grease or anti-seize would be better. I also used a coupling nut instead of a regular nut because of its greatly increased thread area.

How would an acme thread work.?

The added strength inherent in the Acme thread, all other things being equal, really isn't needed for this job. If it makes you feel better or safer and you have access to it, then by all means use it.

Thanks dave.

I have 6 ft of 1/2 inch. Bought it for a train worm gear. But found a place that sells the worm and worm gears..

With the tl arm tool not much on frame holds it ..this would add a little back up if it came off.

With the U bolt i was able to lift arm with engine out.

Thanks for the great suggestions. I used the all thread to crank it down, then used heavy duty chain to hold to torsion load arm to the frame (all ideas from this forum). Worked great and I was then able to remove the upper and lower control arms.
I replace the upper control arm inner bushings already, not too big of a deal. But the lower inners seem to require brute force. I can see no way to use bushing remover tools as there is nothing to grab onto.
Is the only way to beat the bushing with a chisel until it gives up and comes out? I'm concerned about bending the control arm. Maybe I can take a reciprocating saw to it then pound the rest with a chisel.

Does any know of a more elegant method?

thank you.

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Turns out they came out pretty easily with a hammer and a chisel. A few whacks and the bushings popped out AFTER I cut inner rubber off.


Another question. I replaced the king pin and bushings with the king pin kit from Max Merritt. The replacement grease retaining plugs only have one with a grease fitting, the other being solid. Has this been okay for people, or are people tapping a hole in the solid one and installing another grease fitting to be like the original? (maybe an 90deg angle one like the original?)

Also, I had a hell of time getting the king pin locking pin in place. It would go halfway or so and then hammering would just deform the pin. The King pin is oriented correctly so there is a nice hole for the locking pin. i ended up using the old pin instead and that worked much better.

thanks

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The king pin kit should include 4 pcs #373919 1 5/16 disc plug with zerk fitting. The photo you show has 2 with and 2 without