Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hello everyone,
I need to replace the rear stabilizer rod eye bushings (Group 13.11648 p/n 445340) on my '55 400. The outboard ones are simple, it's the inboard ones that have me scratching my head. Once I have removed the pins that go through the rod eye and install new bushings, what would I use to replace the pins that will be destroyed during removal? The clearances are to tight for nut and bolt substitutions. Is welding an option or will the heat generated from welding melt the new bushings and what about the next time the bushings need replacing? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Brian

If you are a PAC member the Nov 2017 Vol LXIV #11 issue of the Cormorant News Bulletin has an excellent article on the TL system, how everything interacts bushing and friction wise as well as info on improved urethane bushings available now and particularly the rear Watts Linkage and rear axle bushings.

I don't know if those news bulletins are available for purchase separately but if you do not have the issue maybe you could get in touch with Dwight Heinmullerpackardparts.org and pick his brain on the best way to replace them. He wrote the article and may even have reprints available. He sells a kit of the improved bushings which as long as you are doing the work to replace some perhaps might be worth doing the others while things are apart.

I did mine many years ago and as I recall once the rivets were cut to remove the complete upper assy I was able to use bolts to put the upper piece back together and mount it to the frame. I don't remember if there was other stuff that had to be removed for access.

If I were to do it again I would go with the urethane bushings. I used NOS for mine at the time and can't speak to what current Steele linkage bushings are like but several have found that with some other suspension bushings the Steele rubber is too soft and has a short lifespan.

To reinstall, after grinding the heads off the pins to disassemble, I just drilled and tapped the pins for a small machine screw and washer. Many folks I've spoken to about this have taken the same approach. I used urethane bushings from Kanters.

Thank you Owen for that simple yet effective repair. I was way overthinking this whole thing and your solution made me think, "Why didn't I think of that?" The ole K.I.S.S "Keep It Simple" rule strikes again. I purchased my bushings from Max Merritt. Not sure of their composition. Should I grease the bushings with a thin film of chassis lube inside and out during assembly to avoid squeaks or will that only collect dirt and lead to an early demise?
Brian

I wouldn't use any lubricant, and especially not a chassis grease if the bushings are rubber.

I used graphite.. Not sure where you can buy it.

Dry flake...not liquid...

Graphite...good idea. I have some that I use on my door locks. Thank you. Thanks everyone for helping me with this repair. I can't wait to see if this repair makes any difference in the ride and handling. It will definitely get rid of the rattle. One set of the inner bushings was completely gone, metal on metal. Next job is the axle seals and pinion seal. Thank you all again.
Brian

I use P-80 Emulsion, a temporary rubber assembly lubricant. It is biodegradable and dries up in about an hour leaving no remaining lubrication. It is made by International Products Corp and is available many places. I purchased a 10ml tube from SpaDepot.com for $4.95.

Silicon spray also works as a lube on rubber parts and you can buy it at any Auto Parts store or even Walmart.

Didn't Steele Rubber once suggest soap and water, or am I just all wet.
Wes