Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I'm sure this will be an easy one but keep in mind I've never done this before.
I bought a 1956 license plate for my Clipper. As I want to keep the car looking as original as possible I was thrilled that the plate colors for 56 match the colors of my car. The plate needs some help though. Any tips for removing the old paint and eliminating some of the surface rust. Preferably something that doesn't involve a sand blaster as I don't have one of those.

What's wrong with the old fashioned way? Chemical paint stripper, sand paper and wire brush to remove the rust, good coat of primer, and body putty like NitroStan to fill the depressions. Optionally a rust converter before priming.

There's folks out there who will sand blast very cheaply, talk to auto shops in your area. Have to be careful with sheet metal, it can warp from heat as it is thin. Soda or bead blasting would be safest, they can do that too.

Just a thought to possibly save you some expense. I'd first check with your State's Department of Motor Vehicles or equivalent agency to determine if the dated plate is acceptable? DMV rules (laws) are different everywhere; to include some States require that you have both plates before they will allow you to place them on the car for highway (roadway) use.

Here in Arizona, I can use my newly painted 1954 plate with an authentic 1955 aluminum tab/tag, but then, I must also place the newer modern stick-on expiration date tab on the plate too. And that, I think takes away from the 'original' look that I'm trying to maintain on the car itself.

MI does allow use of a correct year license plate, however is has to be correct in color. The MI 1956 plate has a white background with green letters/numbers. Don't even think of changing that. Also, in 1956 MI only had a rear plate, no front plate. In addition to being historically correct, there is one other reason to use a year correct plate. Currently, MI has a one time, permanent registration for correct year plates. (If Rep. Cushingberry gets his way that will change).

New Jersey is still a one-time fee for Historic plates, but you are required every 3 years to return a mailing indicating if the plates are still in service. A positive response results in a new no-charge registration certificate for the next 3 years. Although we're officially a 2-license plate state and are issued dual Historic plates, a change a couple of years ago allows us to use a year-of-manufacture plate in front with no requirement to register that plate number.

Thanks for the info and feedback. I knew MI allowed the plates and I'm glad the colors match because for a brief second, or two, I considered changing the green to match the outside of the car instead of the green on the inside. So I'm really glad that was mentioned before I did that.
I'm not opposed to doing the work on the plate myself but do you soak the plate in the paint thinner? If so how long or does that even matter? And is the body putty workable like acrylic or more like drywall putty? Is there a more workable putty? I'm not half bad with something like acrylic but you don't want me helping with drywall, trust me on that one.

I prefer the gel-type brush-on paint stripper, brush it on, wait a bit, and rinse it off. Second pass often required in a few spots dependent on lots of factors, including the the type and thickness of the paint. I think the brand I use is from the local hardware, a name something like "Strip-Eze". Wear gloves!

For filling, I'd use NitroStan, and very nice workable auto body putty for shallow defects, sold in small tubes like toothpaste tubes if you only need a bit. It's made for the job and was an industry standard for decades.

My recommendation is to buy another plate in good condition. Check eBay or C'list in your area.

Contact Dave Leitner in the Pontiac Mi. area. He had a large collection of plates several years ago. I'll PM his phone number to u if interested. He also knows (or did know) a local that restores them. I don't think he has an email.

Paint thinner will never remove the paint. You will need paint remover for that chore. I agree with the other posters and advise you to buy one. I got a perfectly restored 56 Michigan plate that I registered to my car for 30.00. I am very handy and would not even consider doing one for that money.