Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

For the last few weeks I heard an intermittent rattling sound coming from the front of the engine in my 55 Pat. This occurred at idle or slightly off idle. It was frustrating because I couldn't locate it exactly. I checked the usual suspects: fan, water pump, generator and PS pump, but they were all tight and noiseless. Finally the noise got really pretty loud and when I looked at the harmonic balancer ring on the snout of crank right behind the pulleys, it was wobbling!

Now that I found out the problem, what to do? I had a spare good used harmonic balancer (Packard calls it a vibration damper) on a 55 352 V-8 that I was using for the header fitment on the bare Panther chassis, so that was no problem. The service manual shows a 3-part factory puller tool (J-5992-1,2,3), so I decided to modify a general purpose 2 or 3 prong puller for the job. To do this removal in the car, of course you have to remove the gen and PS drive belts and the fan and its pulley. I didn't want to drain and remove the radiator, so I had to modify the puller to fit in the existing space. Here's what I ended up with:



The part you can't see is the mimic of the J-5992-2 center adapter which I assembled out of 5/16 bolt & nut and a 3/8 deepwell socket and some duct tape:









Here's a closeup of the missing rubber ring on the broken balancer (vibration damper):



Here's a closeup of the intact rubber ring on the cleaned up and painted used balancer (vibration damper):



Total cost of repair: ZERO. Damage done to the engine due to broken balancer (vibration damper): none discernible.

Craig

Craig - I too had a strange under-hood noise in the 56 Carib about 15 years ago, but I was lucky and found it almost immediately; fortunately the hood was open and engine idling when I took a look - and quickly spotted the damper weight ring loose and banging into the timing degree protrusion on the timing chain cover. Even in the short drive home it battered the cover so much that in the end I replaced the timing chain cover.

I forget just how I got the damper off, I didn't have the special took but in any case it was so simple I don't remember the details. Since I was changing the cover I also took the opportunity to replace the timing chain and also check to be sure I had the later style camshaft thrust plate that was part of the engine oiling running changes. When I reinstalled the damper, after cleaning the surfaces I packed the crankshaft snout with dry ice for a few minutes and the damper just slipped on with minimal effort. I used Steele Rubber for the revulcanizing service, that was before I knew of Damper Docs.

Owen_Dyneto Quote:

Dave, good hint. On mine, it was a snug fit off and on and I didn't have any dry ice. For reinstallation, I "persuaded" it with taps from a 10lb sledge hammer. After the hub started into the TC cover seal, I was able to get the bolt started with a thin washer instead of the thick regular one and I also left the PS pulley off temporarily. Once it got snugged down pretty close to seating, I removed the bolt and thin washer and installed the pulley and thick washer.

One other hint from what I did: The crankshaft rotation has to be locked to untorque (remove) the damper bolt and also to reinstall and tighten to the proper torque. I removed the #3 spark plug and inserted a 6IN steel drift when that piston was up near its TDC. Then continue to rotate the crank by hand with a breaker bar and socket on the damper bolt until the piston top jams against the drift. Then you can apply sufficient (un)torque. Just rotate the damper bolt back a little to free up the drift. No harm done to the drift or piston top.

Craig

It is to be hoped you closely examined the keyway of the used damper you installed. When I magnaflux test them, about one in three I check are cracked.

I've developed a steel sleeve and an oversized neoprene seal to fix the problem.

Damper Doc is now more than $200 to re-rubber a Packard V8 damper.

jack vines

Dalemfg did my balancer for 110, but seems to be out of business now. He seems to still be making violins though. His name is David Langsather from Salem Oregon. He did a great job.

Now my real reason for posting.... Why is the balancer yellow?

cli55er Quote:

I was hoping someone would ask that!

I don't have any ivory paint that is the 55 Senior 352 color. So the closest rattle can color I had was bright yellow from Walmart. Which is exactly the same color I painted the 1978 Firebird Trans Am that I constructed for the movie "Eldorado", which was eventually delivered to the actress Daryl Hannah in Malibu, CA for her part in the movie.

I figured that no one would notice, but obviously someone did.

LOL!

Craig

Jack Vines Quote:

Nope. Put it on and hope.

These cars are 58 years old. Rubber in particular gives up after a while. I'm aware of these facts.


Craig

i just thought it was for higher visibility for timing or something.

cli55er Quote:

I did mark the TDC indent on the hub with a dark magic marker so it can be seen more readily by a timing light. I like this reason, I'll use it instead in the future and I'm sticking to it!

Craig

I too, have experienced a 352's collar "walking" off, and nearly grinding away the timing marks on the timing cover. To remove the dampener, I have a two legged puller that grips the collar behind the sheave (the part that walks off), and a long bolt to push it back on. I am squeamish about hammering on the damper, either taking it off or putting it on, since that is, in effect, same as hammering on the side load part of the rear main bearing.

As for rebuilding a dampener, never have. For the one mentioned above, I fanangled the collar back in place, then drilled and installed two set screws, 180 degrees apart on the hub itself, just behind that collar, with the head about 1/16" away from the rear side of the collar. That worked out well, so have since installed the set screws in every 352 ever owned or worked on, as a preventive measure.

I am picky about a tight fit of the hub on the crank snout (especially running AC), and try to use the tightest fitting hub available. (It helps to have several spares :)