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The right-side arm that attaches to Compensator (Levelizer) Bar (CLB) has slipped off of the hexagon part (see photo). The flats on the arm are mid-way between the flats on the opening on the flats on the CLB. How can I determine which flat on the CLB goes with the flats on the arm. Also, what is the easiest way to get them to align?

Right now, the rear of the car is higher that the front.

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Reading in Section 16 I see where the arm needs to be positioned (Fig. 22, pg 10). Also, that it is slipped on the Levelizer Bar when the car is level. However, the rear of the car is much higher than the front. Shorting out terminals A & B on the Compensator Control Switch (CCS) doesn’t get the car level.

Not sure if you need to unload the bar

How would that be accomplished?

Presuming there is nothing else disconnected or any kind of damage elsewhere, I think you could do it without disturbing anything other than disconnecting the compensator and transverse bars from the short compensating bar levers so there will be absolutely no influence on the lever that is still attached in the proper position.

Have the car so all 4 wheels are on the ground or supporting the car. If you had access to a pit it would be the easiest but without that option, the wheels would need to be on ramps or blocks so you could get under to work. You could also have ramps in front and jack stands under the rear axle. Important thing is nothing in the suspension has the wheels just hanging down.

With the transverse bars disconnected, the remaining short bar and lever is going to find a spot it likes no matter where the level might be. The photo in the SM with a level car showing them pointing slightly toward center I suspect was taken on a Clipper with minimal accessories. In almost every senior model I have seen, level has them angled somewhere different and the more accessories, the more weight in front so the steeper the angle needed to have the short bar bring the rear to match and level. With the rear in the air I suspect the lever is going to have the ball pointing substantially toward or even slightly in the frame rail space.

Once you know where the lever wants to be, if you have room to work you could then reattach the lever to the flats so it is positioned substantially the mirror image of the same angle as the still connected side. If lever is buried in the frame or clamp bolt not accessible, then add some weight to the trunk -- say a 50# bag of sand or two. The added weight will cause the short bars to rotate and bring the levers more to the position shown in the SM. Once you have both levers attached and at substantially the same mirror image angle then reconnect the transverse bars and compensator. Make sure no electrical issue drove the compensator 180. "Vee" shape of compensator lever should point to passenger side and long transverse bar must be mounted at the rear side of the compensator. When everything is reconnected test and adjust the turnbuckle to the control switch as needed to get the car level.

The turn buckle is a left and right thread.

From drivers side. Looking up.

Up. Clockwise makes it go up.

Turning down ccw. Will lower it.

The left handed thread. Is on the arm hooked to switch.

To unload the bars you need that hugh packard contraption.

But guess you don't have to.

Problem solved. The issue occurred while I was troubleshooting a TL problem that was traced to the limit switch. During the testing, the levers on the CLB were move back and forth by using the shorting procedure on the TL Controller on terminals A & B. I noticed that the lever on the right side was no longer engaged with the CLB after a good limit switch was installed. Because the levers were moved back and forth the lever on the right side was out of position. The shorting procedure was used to determine what flat on CLB the lever should go on. Once this was done, t lever was installed and all is working fine now.

Thank You Riki and Howard for your thoughts and inputs.