Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hello everyone,

This spring/summer I plan to replace the brakes in my 55 Clipper Deluxe. I'm looking on the Kanter site, and I see that the kit with the new cylinders is a fair amount more expensive than the one with cylinder kits ($529 vs $290). How can I know if my cylinders are rebuildable?

I also notice that the tools KMO 145 and 526 are called out in the manual. How necessary are either of these? Also for Lubriplate lubricant... what lube should I use?

And, while I'm ordering from Kanter, what other parts in that area would be advisable to pick up? e.g. axle seals. Also, what is the brake line size? I suspect I will need to redo the brake lines in my car, and I'd rather buy the tubing and DIY it than buy the finished lines.

Rule of thumb I followed on cylinders is when you take them apart, if the pistons have corroded or seized to cylinder wall or if any pits have formed in the casting then it is best to replace. Exterior wise, if the bleed screw is seized and breaks off when removed then you may not have a choice and cylinder is best replaced. If the inside of cylinder is still smooth and fluid did not dry out or come out full of sediment or rust then just a light honing and new rubber contained in the kit is all that is required.

As to the special tools they can be duplicated by modern universal items. A brake spoon is needed to adjust the star wheel and brake pliers to remove and replace the spring is good to have. The pliers usually have the removal tool built in that the special Packard tool did. The clamps are not absolutely necessary but do help keep the spring and pistons contained after the cylinders are rebuilt while you work on the external items. I believe clamps are also available in a universal tool but a piece of stiff wire can be bent and will work almost as well.

Amazon has all the tools individually but they also have drum brake rebuild kits that contain an assorment of those tools in different sizes for not much more money than individuals would cost.

Seals are always a good item to change and also check the condition of the bearing and races. Some of the items can be bought individually but if Kanter has a good kit sometimes it is cheaper to get that and maybe not use an item than it is to chase around trying to find something aftermarket.

Thanks, I will check Amazon.

I think I will need to tear into the brakes before ordering a kit to check the cylinder condition. I would assume it to be trashed considering the condition of the car but honestly who knows. The carb looked awful but the inside seems perfectly rebuildable.

The brakes are the one thing that I know got messed with by the previous owner as he bought it as a parts car for the brakes. Except the Clipper brakes weren't the same as the ones on his 56 (oops) so he then just sold it off. Though I believe the only thing messed with was the front passenger. So I'll need to see if there's anything missing there.

Except for the master in my 1951 Henney-Packard which was the wrong one anyway, I've never had a cylinder that wasn't rebuildable and even that one might have been but I never tried due to it being incorrect. The proper replacement definitely needed to be sleeved, though, but it was rebuildable too. On your car, if you have brakes now, it is likely an easy fix to rebuild the cylinders with fresh parts and be sure to replace all three flexible hoses at the same time even if yours look okay on the outside. I had one once on our 1972 Mercedes 280 SEL 4.5 that looked fine while trying to find why the brakes were dragging and it was only after removing the hose and trying to blow 100lbs of air through it that I discovered it had closed up internally.

Thanks for the input Don. I received a PM from another member suggesting to not rebuild the wheel cylinders, as you can get new ones on RockAuto for about $8. Not sure why Kanter's are over $30 ea. I think I will still rebuild the master cylinder as it's (barely) cheaper than a new one but I also don't know how well a new one will fit in. (Actually the Raybestos one on Amazon is only 50 bucks...). Here's the shopping list so far: (part plates)

- 1.400 front - Brake shoes - BENDIX 264 Premium
- 1.400 rear - Brake shoes - WAGNER Z228R QuickStop
- 1.023 (4 types) - Wheel cyls. - DYNAMIC FRICTION 37554022, 3, 98, 9
- 1.607 front (qty 2) - Duralast Brake Hose 88226
- 1.607 rear - Duralast Brake Hose 88224

I also have some other goodies picked out for some basic gettings-go:

- 5.19128 - GATES 33624 Thermostat Gasket
- 5.19129 - Thermostat - MOTORAD 200170 170 Degree

- 4.0703 - Voltage regulator - GM GENUINE D618
- 4.1016 - Horn relay - STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HR106T T-Series
- 4.0305 - Point set - UNITED MOTOR PRODUCTS CP026
- 4.1105 (qty 8) - Spark plugs - CHAMPION 405 Copper Plus; Pre-Set Gap: 0.035"

- 5.10098 - Oil filter - WIX 51006
- 5.1929 - Belt - CONTINENTAL 17550MK Mileage Maker
- 31.3862 (qty 2) - Wipers - TRICO 33122 Classic; Conventional Style

Also picking up a FRAM G2 In-Line fuel filter.

I still need to find some brake line. I think these use 1/4" inch line, right?

The problem with the locally sourced cylinders is that they are sometimes but inconsistently metric. I bought two of the same type from Napa only to find that on one the bleeder was different and turned out to have a metric hex. If you decide to buy from Kanter's or one of the others, be sure to check that sort of thing as maybe they have the same sources!