Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

See you next spring old paint!

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Pat, You live in the Banana Belt. I put my Packard away in early October.

Don't know about you guys, was about 70 and mild here today in NE Ohio. Even got to paint outside! I know we're gonna pay for this when winter DOES get here...let alone spring, probably won't see it until July!

At least you all have your Packards at home! Something I've still got to do with my '55. Hopefully that will happen in about a week.
One thing I'm going to try to tackle tomorrow is raising the back end of the car. When it was finally let down in front after 23 years, the back end didn't come up. I'm hoping that when I put the starter back in and hook up the wiring with a fresh battery; the stern will rise to it's normal height. Has anyone come across this problem before? If it doesn't work, what are my next steps? The pictures were taken by the guy I bought it from when he removed from his sellers garage. The picture of the back end with the guy trying to hook up a tow dolly gives a good idea how low the back end is sitting.

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I've seen the contact points in the control box oxidize and not make electrical contact even though they were touching. Just verify all your fuses are good and the on/off switch is pointed toward the steering column. As complicated as the system looks, it is remarkably trouble-free.

Thanks Randy! That's what I'm counting on. The starter checked out perfect (after 25 years out of the car) so I'm hoping the suspension system will too. I checked the switch and it is currently in the "off" position. I have no way of knowing if the system was turned off before or after they jacked up the front of the car. Provided I don't get rained out, I'll let everyone know how it goes tomorrow.
I've got a Lincoln Town Car as a daily driver and it looks the same as the Packard if you don't turn off the suspension before jacking that baby up! Way different system, I know but the same results.

Jim

If it turns out that the control box is the culprit, you do have an immediate alternative. Hook up a manually operated 3 pole switch and mount it next to the on/off switch and wire it up directly to the t-level motor. Of course this is assuming that the motor is functional. I have had one mounted for years and I am just waiting until I have the money to afford the up-to-date transistorized version.

Hopefully all goes well, but if not I would only suggest a bit of caution if you do go directly.

If you cannot watch what is happening so you can stop movement immediately, then try to connect at the pink and yellow wire terminals at the control switch first and use the limit switches, solenoid, & remainder of the circuitry as designed.

If one of those is not working, then not much alternative to motor but be careful. The picture shows it all. Top piece is new and is how things should look, bottom assy is result of something allowing no limit switch with twisted off spine and bent rod. Those compensator assys have incredible power and there is only a brief moment between good and not good ($$$$).

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Al and HH56, thank you both! I've printed out this thread with all your suggestions and advice and Randy's description of the system and am taking it with me today. Hopefully, she'll do it on her own; but I feel much better having the knowledge you all have given me.
Thanks again and wish me luck -

Follow HH56's advice on wiring a separate switch(s) into the system. I have seen several splines twisted and links bent by people with limited understanding of how the system works.
The links were bent on my Pat and I think it was because a solenoid stuck even though it had a spring-loaded release.
BE VERY CAREFUL.