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Good day! I recently pulled the speedometer from my 1937 Packard 120 for servicing. In examining the panel, I suspect I restore much luster to my original wood graining by removing oxidation. I tried soap and water, along with a cleaning product for motorcycles (spray on/wipe off). Neither touched it. Any tips for removing the oxidation without removing the paint? Obviously I will need something a little bit abrasive, but would hate to remove too much - they're only original once.

Thought I would sample the brain trust here before I embarked. Thanks in advance!

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So this is a bridge I've never crossed but in the event no one else has either.. If the car were mine I'd try a very mild polish. I would also pick an inconspicuous spot under trim or where it goes under the dash. Maybe start with a Q-tip and see if it improves... you can always add more pressure. If that does work I'd just apply some wax after. You should temper you expectations that it will never look like the covered area unless you redo it. I would also abort the soap and water, I would only think that it would anger it more.

Maybe someone with professional woodgraining/painting experience could chime in, but I think your dash panel looks great.

I'd shoot it with clear urethane, cut with a little matte so it wouldn't look wet. That would protect it "forever." I doubt the oxidation would show.

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I'm assuming there is some sort of "clear coat" like finish correct?

I would start off with a high quality polish and as always start with the least invasive application. High quality because of the strict standards in uniformity, size, and shape of their abrasives

I've used Menzerna polishes for years on hundreds of vehicles with different paint systems. They are free of silicone, wax and fillers do what you see right after you're done polishing is exactly the finish that you'll have weeks or months down the road unlike others were after time the silicones or fillers deplete - the uniformity and quality of their abrasives is incredible

I'd probably startswith their final finisher and a white /
Flat lake country pad (hand polishing)

Use very fine steel wool, grade 000 or 0000. The rust is about the same shade as the wood graining. Then coat lightly with gloss urethane. Than let the paint fully cure before waxing

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

Thanks all for the thoughts! It may not have been clear from my original post - the especially good looking portions in the picture I posted are normally covered by trim, thus the lack of oxidation.

I'll try mild steel wool and/or a gentle polish and report back.

It should be noted that even 0000 steel wool will create inclusions, they may not be visible to the naked eye but they will deter from the finish due to light refracting and not reflecting back to your retina - this is why James mentions a layer of urethane after which fills the inclusions.

If your final passes are done using the polish I mentioned with a machine on very light pressure it will burning or jewel the finish - By hand it will not burnish/jewel due to lack of speed but it will create a beautiful clear finish.