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46 clipper with the 282 flat 8. I recently put the single action mechanical fuel pump on and rebuilt the carburetor also put new plugs and wires.

The first problem I'm having is that I'm not getting any fuel up to the fuel pump unless I hook my electrical fuel pump back up.

The second problem is that I disconnected the mechanical fuel pump and reconnected the electrical fuel pump to see if I could start the car since rebuilding the carburetor and so the car is not starting and after about 10 seconds of trying to get it to start I will get a flame out of the carburetor six inches high.

Any help would be great!!
Thanks!

Others will be more help on the flame out but one question on the gas flow would be the type electric pump you have. Some -- typically most pulsing types (but not all) -- will allow the mechanical pump to pull thru. Others -- most of the rotary types -- will not allow flow thru so needs extra bypass plumbing. You need to determine what type and if your electric will allow a pull thru. Assuming the same electric pump as before then pressure should be OK but if changed, then make sure it's output is in the 4-5 psi range.

You may have two problems, and I'd go back to basics.

Crank the engine and check the mechanical fuel pump with your finger for suction at the intake side. If OK, discard the electric pump (temporarily if you insist on having one), and check for fuel from the mechanical pump outlet. If none, check the fuel line to the tank for obstructions or a pinhole. Has the gas tank been lined recently? If so, make sure the tank pickup is clear by using a short blast of compressed air from the tank outlet. Got gas in the tank, right?

Then, noting the direction of rotation of both the engine (fan) and distributor, remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine via the fan in the proper direction until you feel compression in #1 cylinder and then stop at the timing mark or close to it - don't back up if you overrotate. #1 plug wire should be under the rotor tip - if not put it there are install the balance of the wires in the direction of the distributor rotation in the correct order - 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4.

It was the timing got that figured out. now how do i adjust the carburetor it runs worse now then before except for it kinda starts now when it's hot.

The carb has two adjustments on the outside for idle speed and mixture. First, with a warm engine I would get it to idle at specified RPMs, or as close as you can get, by adjusting the screw on the linkage. Next I would start adjusting the idle mixture screw on the base of the carb. Screw it in until the engine starts to slow down then back it off one-half turn. You may need to go back and forth between the idle speed and the idle mixture to get a final setting. Also, be sure the choke plate is fully released.

If the engine will only run with idle mixture screw turned in all the way, then you have a flooding carb. This is caused by an incorrect float setting or the needle and seat valve not seating properly.

Finally, with the engine idling at the specified RPMs recheck the ignition timing and adjust if necessary.

You have had your troubles in getting this engine to run since Salado (I was the driver of the black 55 Clipper), and are making good progress. Let us know how this works out.

(o{}o)