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Hello guys.....
Is there a simple way to adjust a carburator after its been rebuilt? Im going crazy with it. It was rebuilt due to the fact that at acceleration it was very sluggish. Right after it was rebuilt, it worked great and the car was great at acceleration. But now it seems that it dies at a stop light or it idles really high. Anyone know what it might be??

I finally have it lookin great on the outside and the engine is now giving me issues. It used to run so smooth and very quiet...just a thing of beauty. It is the original engine and carburator. Any ideas???

Elias

PS What do you guys think of the cross bar hubcaps? I have the original dog bowls but I cant find the rims for them. I bought some packard rims but they had clips instead of the three lips it needs for the dog dish hubcaps i have.
Comments are very welcome....always wanting fresh ideas for this car.
Thanks guys.

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Man, she looks good enough to eat. Love that blue.

Make sure that the heat tube for the carb is plugged into the hole at the exhaust manifold and that the choke is going all the way off as it warms up.

Look at your throttle linkage where the cross shaft attaches to the firewall on the driver's side. If that bracket has collapsed rearward, and most of them have, pull it forward and wedge something like an old shock rubber behind the bracket to hold the linkage out away from the firewall. This will give a much better pedal action and insure that the return spring will pull the carb back to idle position each time.

Had to do both of these repairs on my new car last week!

With that annoyance solved you can set your idle speed in the normal manner at the carb and diddle with the two mixture screws to obtain the best idle.. Perhaps someone can post a photo before I can get around to it showing the location of the screws.

Also do a casual check for vacuum leaks, and just for fun, if you have a fuel filter in line somewhere, check/clean it. If you're adventurous, you can take the top of the carb off and see if there's an abnormal amount of grit in the bowl or inlet clogging anything up like the float valve.

Generally, others here will tell you to hook up a vacuum gauge, get the car warm, set the idle if you can, and start adjusting the idle mixture screws, usually on the front lower part of a carb, one at a time.

Screw in until it starts to stumble, screw out slowly and watch gauge until you get maximum vacuum, then back in til the needle moves down some, then back out so you can find the position where you just reach maximum vacuum.

Do this back and forth 2 or three times, resetting the idle if it gets too high or low as you do it.

If it's running too rough, look for other carb/manifold issues, or timing/ignition issues and fix those, then return to the carb.

Thanks guys! This is frustrating! Lol. Do both brass screws act in the same way??