Packard Forum Index » General

My 1952 200 has recently acquired a problem with starting when pedal is pressed to activate. Began intermittently, now it's constant. Ignition is on, battery is new, but when I press the pedal to start, nothing. At times, I've left the pedal depressed for 5 seconds and it will engage. Last couple of times, no action whatsoever. I noticed a 'spring' dangling next to the throttle arm/mechanism; never noticed it being disconnected before, but didn't know if it had broken loose and it's the reason for not starting? Not even sure what the spring is for! Noticed it more intermittently when temps were cold (below 35), even though it's in a warmer garage. Never had the problem before, so....starter issue? Pedal switch issue? When I have gotten it started, shut it off, then restart, it starts 'hard'. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

There are some adjustments for the linkage and switch engagement point that could have changed but that is probably the least likely thing unless there has been some work done on the car that required linkage to be disconnected or the carb disassembled.

A couple of more likely possibilities linkage related is a bracket on the firewall which holds the linkage pivot rod coming up from the accelerator where it connects to the cross rod is connected together by a piece of rubber at the bottom. That rubber might have failed letting the top of the bracket move excessively when the pedal is pressed and cause a loss of motion to the rest of the linkage to the point the switch is not being moved far enough to engage. Another problem could be the accelerator pedal itself. If it has been pressed mostly in the middle rather than more toward the top the pedal could have been bent and bowed. If that is the case it could be the bent middle is hitting the floor and stopping the pedal movement before the top where the linkage connects has moved enough to fully move the linkage enough to engage the switch.

If both of those check out OK, the switch is inside the black plastic piece with two terminals sitting on the back of the carb. It could have worn to the point contact is not being made. Assuming linkage is moving the full amount, to see if the switch is the problem you can take a short length of wire and just touch an end to each terminal on the side of the switch to momentarily connect them together. Turn the key on and as soon as the connection is made the starter will engage. Use some caution and make sure nothing -- including you -- can be damaged when the engine turns over. If that procedure works several times in a row, the switch is probably bad.

Here is a bit on the switch and how it works plus a view of the firewall bracket circled in red. Make sure that the top portion holding the rod is not moving very much when the accelerator is pushed.

Attach file:

---

  (228.66 KB)


  (118.59 KB)


  (32.18 KB)

Another possibility is that the ball which actuates the starter is intermittently stuck in the upward position due to varnish so maybe just a good blast of carburetor cleaner into the hole where the switch goes will free it up.

Thank you! You've supplied incredible information, I appreciate that! Ironically, yesterday, I did press on the accelerator and when holding it down, my foot slid a bit up to the top and the starter engaged. Like you said, I thought to myself, "...perfect...bowed foot pedal!" So I played with that today, but I couldn't recreate it. Pushed from the top, but still no start. Will be working with it again tomorrow (I'm not a mechanic and don't usually work on the car). Since it started happening once in a great while, then intermittently, then now constant, I figured it had to be a 'wear' issue. Thanks for those diagrams! Stay tuned!

Another quick question: Any experience with a faulty neutral safety switch? I'm here in Indiana and can easily run down to Max Merrit for parts. The parts guys are great troubleshooters and made that suggestion. They said it's rare for 'intermittent' or 'delayed' starting issues, but could be a possibility. Any thoughts?

It is a possibility the switch is bad but it could be wear or adjustment too. Have you tried a slight push or pull against the gearshift lever while the accelerator is pressed and see if the motion makes the starter engage. If it does there could be wear on the plunger or the switch might be loose. If wear possibly there is a shim or lock washer that could be removed so it could be threaded in a bit more.

The neutral switch is screwed into the transmission case and a bit hard to get to but worth checking the wiring out to make sure there is a solid connection if nothing changed with moving the lever. As to a new switch, unless they will let you return it or you just want a spare, before you buy a new switch why not remove the wires from the existing switch and connect them together temporarily. Wires have bullet connectors as terminals but you can lay the connectors side to side and wrap bare wire around them to make the connection and then tape to hold and insulate. If the starter works, use the car for a few days and if the problem does not return the switch is the likely suspect. If the problem persists then at least you have eliminated one item and can concentrate on the carb switch or linkage.

Just be double sure the trans is in Park or Neutral when starting the engine since the safety will no longer be in the circuit. As long as the carb switch is adjusted and working properly and the ball raises to disconnect the linkage there should be no danger of engaging the starter while driving in gear but that is also something to keep in mind if you press the accelerator to the floor to pass someone.

Thanks, Howard. I haven't touched anything on the car regarding the safety switch; just thinking what else I can do for the weekend project. The fact that I can press the pedal (at the top) and hold it for 5, 10 even 15 seconds before it comes on is mystifying. I would think that would mean a connection of some sort. The other day, we went for a drive, stopped at a DQ, got back in and it wouldn't start. Played a little with the ignition key, off - on; off - on. Turned on....held the pedal down for 10 seconds, then it popped on. It used to start intermittently, but right away. weeks apart. Now it's daily and seldom immediate. It's time for a rebuild (Pat Aldridge in Ohio), but thought I could get a few more fun summer months out of the drive before I hand it over to him. Thanks for your incredible knowledge!

Good afternoon...Since you were able to get the old girl started at DQ and you fiddled with the ignition switch (key switch) I am wondering if a loose wire on the back of it or that the switch is worn out. Perhaps something to check as part of the problem...Ernie in Arizona

Sorry, Ernie. 'Howard' showed up somewhere; sorry about that! Yea, ignition was checked as well. I went from battery, ignition, solenoid, carb starter, linkage, ur suggestions and now neutral safety switch. I will play with the shifter, however...running out of things I can do! Thanks!

Get yourself a little jumper wire. Put the car in park and turn the key on. Jump across the two wires going into the switch on the carb. Crank every time?-- the switch needs cleaning. Still iffy?--something else is wrong.

Take your little jumper wire and jump from the battery cable on the starter to the little terminal on top of the starter. Crank every time? then it is time to look at the neutral switch and attendant wiring.

Please report back. It is almost never the neutral switch unless the wires are falling out of their little sockets.