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the first thing to check is to raise the hood and have someone inside try to shift the lever while you're looking under the hood. You will see the shift levers - there are two forks sticking out from the column, towards the engine. Grab hold of each of them and see if you can move both of them up and down. When they are in the same plane, it is in neutral. Sometimes the old linkage just gets stubborn and locks up. Try some PB Blaster or similar on the levers if there is a lot of corrosion on it. I'll go shoot a photo of the linkage on my car and post it later tonight.

So I figured out today that the reverse is shot on the transmission.Something I forgot to mention before is that when I take off in first the car shutters pretty bad until I fully let off the clutch. So do you think I need to rebuild everything in the transmission? Or Is the clutch bad and I need to replace the parts for the reverse?

Being this is the first time dealing with this kind of issue can somebody give me a good link to get started with taking this apart.

Thank you in advance!!

It sounds like you have a bad clutch. The chattering could be from oil on the disc lining or just worn out. The clutch should not be too much of a problem to fix. The parts are obtainable from Packard vendors and good auto part stores. The release and pilot bearings may be the hardest to locate. You should fix the source of oil leakage, if this is the problem, when you replace the clutch or else you will be doing the job over again in a short time.

The reverse gear in the transmission is a simple sliding affair. Not much to wear there unless a gear tooth has been broken. This will be easy to see once the transmission top has been removed. Probably the shifting mechanism in the top is where the problem lies. Of course the complicated shifting linkage from the steering column to a set of idler arms then to the transmission levers provides a rich environment for shifting problems.

Biggest and heaviest problem will be removing the transmission from the car. Easier if you do not have an overdrive unit bolted to the rear of the transmission.

It is all doable, just be careful and follow safe practices working under a jacked up car. A shop manual, down loadable here, will help too.

(o{}o)

If you don't have a printed copy, suggest you download section 7 of the 46-50 service manual. That gives some general information on how things work and fit together as well as how to remove and reinstall the clutch and trans.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual4650/Section7.pdf

The training manual for the transmission and overdrive is another good read. It does not go into the linkage and clutch much or how to remove anything from the car but does go into detail on how things fit together and work in the trans.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/TransmissionAndOverdriveTrainingManual.pdf

I was about to take the transmission apart today and found out that my reverse does work!! . So when I put the linkage back together it wouldn't hardly go into first.I got it into first drove it around a bit then couldn't get it back into reverse unless I grip the linkage with my hand and push it in.There is alot of free play in my linkage I'm curios to know if anybody makes a rebuild kit for this. Or is this how it's supposed to be? Or if this is even where the problem is?

Linkage is not supposed to be very loose but with any worn bushings and rod ends, it would not be a surprise. To the best of my knowledge no one is reproducing the bushings and that seems to be one of the main source of problems. Each of the vendors might have one or two but none seem to have a complete set. Don't believe anyone has been able to completely replace them all. There are some cupped spring washers that are also supposed to keep things fairly snug. Some of those could be missing or worn out.

Might look at the Packard Service Index on the left menu. Under 41-47 Clipper and then transmission and overdrive, check out all the articles on gear shift linkage and associated problems. Lots of factory advice and causes of problems listed. The linkage was very similar in the 40-41 non Clipper and 48-50 models so might check those as well.

Here is a photo showing an oil hole low on the gearshift column. Look around for it as it may be covered with grease or off to the side a bit. The parts inside under that hole are probably dry. Many have found a few drops of oil and then working the oil in by moving the shift lever back and forth works wonders with some shift problems.

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Howard,

Thank for your informative posts. As usual, you seem to have the right info for me at just the right time.

I have been noticing that I'm having more an more difficulty shifting. Today, I almost couldn't get it into reverse, and as I drove, it loosened up slightly. I would find a sweet spot going from first to second, and as I finessed the lever, it would fall into the proper position for second and direct drive (third). It's as though the neutral position is having a hard time deciding if it is in the normal position of second/third, or in the first/reverse zone. It may be dry inside as you mentioned.

I read the Section7 bulletin you linked to. I think I may just need some lube. Is that oil hole pictured on the 22nd series also?

Just found the oil hole.

I think I'm going to have to disconnect the linkage at the pivot point on the motor to see what's going on.

Thanks!

There should be an oil hole. Most of the 22-23 series models have the same part number 412550 column as that 47 custom pictured. The junior models have a different part number column but expect the difference is relatively minor.

Yes, I just edited my post as I found it. I can only get it to go into first at this point. It seems as if the forward-backward movement on the lever is now limited. Very little movement there, when you pull it towards you, or push it away.

When my 48 got stiff and didn't want to shift I put the plastic straw on a can f PB Blaster in the hole on the steering column and gave it a generous shot and that did the trick, shifted smoothly afterwards.