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Havent read ur entire BIBLE so maybe these things have been hit on. Have found these on other cars in the past:
1.Breather for Gas Tank not clear and building up a vacuum. Vacuum increase and engine stalls. Let it sit and vacuum decrease. Run without the Cap and c what happens.
2.Bypass that Elect Pump and Reg.and c what happens.
Some of these can restrict. The low Inchs of Vac just dont cut it.

AND could b something else.

Quote:

I suspect that your rubber fuel hose(s) are collapsing internally.This may be the root of your troubles. Let us know.
Good luck.
Tom

If you happen to have a glass bowl filter in front of your carburetor, and have not changed out the rubber gasket in awhile they can swell themselves closed, restricting fuel flow.

Tom probably has the correct answer, especially if the hose is older, and not rated for ethanol type fuel. That stuff can really mess up the older rubber lines as well as diaphragms in the fuel pump.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. It would seem that 'stalling' is a long-standing issue in Packerland with many root causes. I have owned many, many vehicles and have NEVER had a problem like this with any other engine before. The way MY stalling issue presents, the car is flooding out, rather than starving for fuel. When I ordered a replacement rebuilt carb and it didn't seem to change anything, I (maybe falsely) presumed I could rule out carburetion. In reviewing some of the You Tube instructional videos on the Carter WA-1, it would seem that float levels are both critical and finicky with that particular model. I also see lots of mention of the metering rod and its spring being a possible cause of incorrect fuel delivery. Irrespective, my problem is from too much fuel vs. insufficient delivery and I am approaching it from the standpoint of trying to determine WHY?? While I realize collapsed tube layers of hose can cause weird and intermittent performance anomalies, I don't think it is has anything to do with my car's 'sickness'. I still am not convinced that there might not be some other underlying issue, like a cracked intake manifold or even some strange internal problem like a crack in the head or block that manifests when the engine gets up to operating temperature under load. If and when I do find the problem, I think it will be a major 'AHA' moment and it will make sense. It sure doesn't now, that's for sure!!!!
Thanks again for the input and time taken to try and help - much appreciated. Chris

I have continued on with trying all the suggestions and have reasoned through others to make sure that is not my problem. I changed the fuel regulator on my fuel pump to a 1-4 PSI and got it to 3 #'s, which is what the manual calls for. We reset the float in the carb, and started at 3/4 of a turn out on the air bleed screw and kept richening it by a quarter turn at a time. We go out of the yard, down a small hill to a cattle guard on the flat and stop to turn around. It doesn't stall. We come back and up the hill, which requires a bit of gas on the grade; we get to the top and go another couple of hundred yards on the flat and pull up in front of the shop - the car 'coasts to a halt' every time. This is the same problem I have been battling for over 2 years now and all the many things I have done to the car, while they have improved other things (like better starting and a smoother idle, etc.) but NOTHING I have done has changed the stalling problem. It SEEMS like a fuel thing.... the clear filter element immediately fills with fuel when I turn the ignition on and start the car. It starts beautifully, idles so smoothly, but when we put it under load and drive it, the stalling comes back. the fuel seems to diminish in the filter and yet when I disconnect the line, there is lots of pressure and if we just disconnect the hose from the carb altogether it pumps tons of fuel. The pump is 5-8 PSI and, as stated, we have it reduced to 3. I am willing to offer a reward to anyone who can peg this. The gentleman who is helping me is a machinist, mechanic and tinsmith, has remarkable diagnostic skills and a very astute mechanical sense. He is stumped - I am stumped. Anybody?? Anything???

Good Evening to you...I am wondering if your carburetor might have an incorrect jet in it, even though it has been rebuilt, or a gasket was left out under a jet? How about your vacuum advance? Another possibility would be to try another carburetor. Ernie

A simple test of the fuel delivery system seems appropriate. Turn off your electric pump, remove and plug the fuel line at the carburetor. Rig a simple gravity-feed tank from a small gas can, hook to the carburetor and have someone hold the tank a foot or more above the height of the carb while you go for a test drive. If the problem persists, you can eliminate the entire fuel system prior to the carburetor from suspicion.

Have you tested the entire (electrical) ignition system, I think it may be earthing out somewhere and the most likely place is in the plate that holds the points.Do you still have you still the shielded cable to the coil?
Regards Pepe.

connects a voltmeter to the bottom coil connection and if stays at 6v when the car falters then ign switch and primary metal cable are OK. Work your way up/ down etc. Do same with fuel press ga. on system