Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

The pump arm and oil smelling of fuel sounds like the diaphragm is bad. Fuel is getting into the oil, and oil was probably getting into the fuel. I just replaced my fuel pump for this reason. Had to replace the new oil too.

Someone else can confirm this, but it sounds like a rebuild of the pump is in order, or swap it for an already rebuilt one. ~$160 from most vendors.

-Kevin

Are new pumps not available? or rebuild kits? I only see ones for an AC pump on ebay. I'm wary pf sending my only pump in...


Also, I'm starting to wonder if this car was converted to negative ground. The wiring was redone in places and the battery cables on the car seem to fit the opposite poles of what they're originally supposed to (ground strap fits negative side, starter cable fits positive side, etc.)

How do I quickly tell if the car has been converted?

Pump rebuild kits are available and easy to install although I found after buying a kit for my 1956 Clipper Custom that my car had the wrong pump. Once the proper pump was found, rebuilding was very simple as the pumps are of a basic design without the extra vacuum booster diaphragm of the earlier pumps.

You car should be positive ground and you should be able to sort it out without much difficultly as little needs to be done when switching from one to the other. If it was done by accident, it will be even easier.

I'm not sure if positive ground and negative ground cars used different voltage regulators so you may have to replace it if the change were done on purpose but you will definitely need to re-polarize the generator. It's a simple process too but I don't have my notes here so when it comes to that, someone here will surly be able to direct you.

Don,

I'm guessing Kanter has those kits? Or Max? I have the Carter pump - which I would like to retain if I could.

On the polarity of the car - I haven't hooked a battery to the car yet. The previous owner did run the engine, and he thought they hooked it up negative ground to do so. So I feel like I'm in a pickle. What happens if I hook it up positive ground now that it may have been run the opposite. I don't want to damage the regulator or generator. I don't want to mess with converting the car now, but not sure how to verify the car is setup one way of the other. Perhaps looking at polarity conversion threads and checking for the differences. I just want to get the car running to confirm it does.

I spent some time cleaning the interior tonight. This car is pretty rough in spots - I think I need a tetanus shot just to sit inside the thing. Despite the massive rust I think she cleaned up fairly ok, I've included before an after shots for comparison. It is such a shame the original charcoal flame upholstery was ruined - I think its so awesome looking. Oh well.

Also, I don't have the key to the trunk. The previous owner was told a "surprise" was inside - maybe Jimmy Hoffa. I also found an entire box of bathroom tiles in the back - anyone redoing their bathroom?

Also, it appears someone installed a "Mico" level lock hydraulic locking system... I've never seen this. Anyone familiar with this system?

Anyways, I've almost got my temporary fuel delivery system hooked up and ready to go - I'll finish up tomorrow.

Attach file:

---

  (334.62 KB)


  (310.16 KB)


  (269.90 KB)


  (355.12 KB)


  (328.91 KB)


  (315.83 KB)


  (262.58 KB)


  (166.56 KB)


  (262.93 KB)


  (327.36 KB)


  (179.53 KB)


  (160.38 KB)


  (256.92 KB)

Anthony - Max Merritt or Kanter would have the rebuild kit for the pump. Either of them also would have the correct Carter pump already rebuilt and ready to install. You send in your old pump as a core, and they send the new one. You pay up front the cost of the rebuilt pump + core ($160+160), then when they receive your old pump they refund you the core charge (160). I chose to install a newly rebuilt pump just for ease.

Your roof rust looks similar to what I dealt with. It looks like your car spent a lot of time in a very wet environment. Pull up the carpet and see what's underneath. My guess is there will be some rust on the front floor boards. That's straightforward to repair, the roof not so much.

Love the color combo. And a shame about the upholstery....that cloth is really interesting.

-Kevin

Kevin,

I'll give Kanter a call, thanks.

Yea this car has rust in spots I never knew a car could get rust in. Was is submerged in a lake? I already have been underneath and see the rockers are gone on one side, the floors are toast near the rockers (although they're holding on by a thread). I'll post pictures soon.

I got the engine to fire today on ether. Felt good to hear it come to life, even if only for a moment. Next steps are gonna be pulling the tank (i'm avoiding the drain plug after the horror stories I've read). See if its in ok enough condition to get boiled. It was undercoated and there was an oil leak spraying back underneath that might have saved the metal back there.

Also looking into the brakes. I thought there was someone on here that rebuilds BTV units- my brakes are most likely shot so i'm gonna probably need everything, cylinders and shoes etc.

Lastly, under the dash there is a junction block. Not sure if this is stock?

Attach file:

---

  (404.04 KB)

Most of the OR cars that I have seen are crazy clean. You just may have a parts car there...I run a Ford fuel pump on mine and they are cheap, do a search on this forum.
And lastly, the only issues with negative ground are switching the coil polarity and the radio that does not likely work anyhoo?
Best wishes!

64avanti,

Is that the ford fuel pump with the bent armature? That works ok?

On your note about OR cars, Something is definitely up with this car though, It must have endured countless rainstorms outside. maybe cause it was WA? ha who knows.

This car perplexes me. It is supposedly a Custom trim line, but somebody replaced the delco remy generator with an autolite generator, and its supposed to have the Rochester carb but it has the Carter carb.. Just seems odd to me.

- Anthony

This happens over the years but it also seemed that Packard often pulled whichever brand they had available. Also, check the tags on the components to see if they are even the proper ones for any Packard or Clipper. Other makes and models of parts may fit but not be the ones that go to the car.

One other thing you could do is to look at the engine number to see if it's the same as the number on the VIN plate on the door jamb. The engine number is stamped on top of the block slightly behind the thermostat housing. It is on a flat boss facing straight up that may have collected dirt and grime over the years so might require some wire brushing to read it. If different, it will tell you that the entire engine had been replaced and the first four digits will tell you which engine it is.

Don,

Great idea, thanks for letting me know where to look.

Weird question. Does the wonderbar radio on all lines include the white dial gauge as the Patrician models had? Or was a black dial gauge available? Mine has a black gauge and I know the '55 Chevy had the wonderbar radio for this year as well, with the black gauge. My radios push buttons are also smooth not ridged like the other models I've seen.