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I am now really wondering if this "survivor" can be saved

Hey, most anything can be fixed (except perhaps a broken heart) so it depends a bit on finances and how much you really want a really big challenge. Who knows what other serious damage yet remains unseen? It may seem harsh but were it mine, I'd part it out and buy a better car as a starting point.

TroyT -

Man, that is some tough luck - all the more frustrating with your extended recovery and an even longer and nastier than usual, winter. Yet, I don't think what you've found is all that uncommon, nor is it exclusive to Packards.

The bad news is that repair panels for the rear tubs aren't available. The good news is that lower sections for the rear quarters are, and you indicated (in post #68) that you were expecting to replace that much more. Using what you have already cut off, you should be able to define how much of the repair section you'll need, which may help you better define the missing edge of the rear tub and then fab up as much.

IIRC, you also expressed some notion about building or buying a body rotisserie.

Before that, perhaps you should explore the other side of the car, as well, and work all the way to the tail end of the body so you can make a fully-informed decision.

Along those lines, you might wanna give Mike Dulinski a call up in MN. Cars end up being parted out for all sorts of reasons; you never know what he might have salvaged. Even if you can't find a complete rear clip (which could be a whole lot more work), you might find just enough good pieces to scab in or use as a pattern.

Of course, much will also depend on how well you're satisified with the door fit following completion of your work on the floor pan and rocker panels.

Even if this Pat doesn't end up as a #1 trophy-winning car, it still might make for a very presentable driver that you can enjoy for years to come - even while you're working on your next Packard, and the one after that, and the one after that...

Classic 2 Current has some repair panelsc2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=16052 I do not know how the fit is.

Thanx guys, I am over my depression now. It has been a long hard winter and I am a bit frustrated. I need to slow my roll and get the body off so I can get back at it. I do have all of the floor pan and external sheet metal, rockers etc that is available to fix the ol girl. I just was not prepared to have do extensive metal replacement, I was mentally set on the mechanical work with a much shorter time frame. I guess you cant rush greatness.

Since I know what I need to do, I guess I will invest in a Patenting Hammer, and perhaps an English wheel, as their are going to be some parts that are going to have to be hand formed. Got to slowly get back into the saddle instead of expecting to jump back in at the pace I was before surgery.

Troy -

Glad you had some time to decompress.

Since it sounds like you're still considering taking the body off of the frame, there's something else you should consider.

Looking at the extent of the surface rust on what's left of that rear wheel tub, although I know areas like that (on ANY vehicle) never get much paint, I suspect there's been a long-term water leak - probably from the right side/end of the back glass. That might also account for the extensive dmamage to the dog leg and rear of the door opening.

You might wanna further explore that area, then, by removing the trunk lining along that side and the rear seat back. You see, the body opening for the back glass is the same 55-56 (and carried-over from 54), EXCEPT that they welded a gusset/filler in each corner for 56, where the roof meets the fender. From the outside, that little bit of work is covered by a brushed stainless trim plate. Even without a water leak, that concealed area tends to get a bit crusty - like what you found underneath the ribbed stainless side trim.

As I'm sure you already know, you've been able to cut into the floor and pillar because the body is still stablized, somewhat, by the plane of the frame.

So, before you go lifting the body off the frame, check that C-pillar attachment - both sides. You may need to tack some temporary metal in there, as well as any other loose or weak points, to keep the body squared up.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your findings.

Oh my, Decisions, Decisions.....thinking of picking up a 2nd 56 Pat that is 95% complete with No rust like my current project. $1,500...what to do pick it up and have a His and Hers?

Hey, if you've got the funds, dry indoor space for it, and the wife's blessing, why not?

Having a second example (form same year) can be a valuable reference for restoration for the first one - especially when it comes to sheet metal repair/fabrication.

After what you've been through with this one, you certainly know what to look out for.

Keep us posted.

Incidentally, I have a 56 Patty outback, that has some really nice doglegs on it if you still need them.

Feed back time: Is it correct to assume that a clipper front bumper will fit the Pat? They look the same to this novice.

Yes, provided it's a 56 Clipper.

The parts book (Gr. 2.001) shows same P/N for the front impact bar for all 56th Series. That carries over to related parts and hardware EXCEPT for the (lower) grille assembly; you'll have to transfer that from your car.